QUOTE (McGuire @ Sep 30 2009, 16:19) 
I'm always jovial, just doesn't seem like it when I am arguing with jackasses... you have to read between the lines a bit.
I do, and I did say 'particularly'!
Full Version: Classic Workshop Short-Cuts
I do, and I did say 'particularly'!
Getting back to classic short-cuts, I just recalled a story from a buddy of mine. He was on a road-trip in Mexico when the diff went out on his 1982 Chevy 1-ton van. (at only 320k miles or so, too.) The mechanic drained the oil from the diff housing and then put it in a zip-loc bag for safekeeping. When the repair was done, he tossed the oil-filled zip-loc into the diff housing, slapped on the cover plate and buttoned it up. The gears make quick work of the plastic bag, and your diff has oil again without the hassle of trying to pour it back in.
QUOTE (blkirk @ Oct 1 2009, 03:38)
Getting back to classic short-cuts, I just recalled a story from a buddy of mine. He was on a road-trip in Mexico when the diff went out on his 1982 Chevy 1-ton van. (at only 320k miles or so, too.) The mechanic drained the oil from the diff housing and then put it in a zip-loc bag for safekeeping. When the repair was done, he tossed the oil-filled zip-loc into the diff housing, slapped on the cover plate and buttoned it up. The gears make quick work of the plastic bag, and your diff has oil again without the hassle of trying to pour it back in.
Traction Motor gearcases (final drive on a locomotive) are typically lubricated with a semi-liquid grease which comes in a plastic "sausage". The idea is you throw the whole thing in - same principle as the Zip-Loc bag.
QUOTE (gruntguru @ Oct 1 2009, 06:45)
Traction Motor gearcases (final drive on a locomotive) are typically lubricated with a semi-liquid grease which comes in a plastic "sausage". The idea is you throw the whole thing in - same principle as the Zip-Loc bag.
and believe it or not early Girling gas shockers - you put the bagged gas into the shocker lined around the inside outside, fill it up with oil and do up the flange seal nut with the shaft fully extended. The shaft volume displacement on compression compresses the bagged gas.
QUOTE (gruntguru @ Sep 14 2009, 23:00)
How many of you have sent the apprentice to the tool store for something fictitious? Perhaps you were the apprentice? Got any rippers to add to the following list of items?
- A long weight (wait)
- A can of striped paint
- A set of skyhooks
- A six inch populating tool
- A long weight (wait)
- A can of striped paint
- A set of skyhooks
- A six inch populating tool
How about getting a new store man to call up and try and buy 10' of 1.250" steel tube.......SH-1-T quality, or if none in stock, try for SH-1-TTY..........and he did it!
Pure skill.
With cutting holes in the firewall most pre 63 Holdens have one.Used for replacing the rear welch plug in the back of the head!
As for pumping up a cylinder with air. Must be done at TDC and only take the one plug out at a time.On stud mount rocker engines it is easy to make a lever to lever the coil down. I have changed race roller cam springs like that on a few occasions. You can buy a tool for taking the spring off[which wont work on a race roller spring!] which hooks around the spring and screws it compressed to get the retainer off.Be carefull though and wear safety glasses. i have had one slip. A bit slow but good for replacing all those stem seals on modern engines that smoke.
As for pumping up a cylinder with air. Must be done at TDC and only take the one plug out at a time.On stud mount rocker engines it is easy to make a lever to lever the coil down. I have changed race roller cam springs like that on a few occasions. You can buy a tool for taking the spring off[which wont work on a race roller spring!] which hooks around the spring and screws it compressed to get the retainer off.Be carefull though and wear safety glasses. i have had one slip. A bit slow but good for replacing all those stem seals on modern engines that smoke.
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