This is an extension of my stripped thread topic

I plan to remove the bolts that fasten the trailing arm to the unibody. I plan to purchase threaded studs of the same pitch/thread count, thread these into the somewhat stripped mounting points and MIG weld them to the frame. I plan to weld the 9 O:clock and 3 o:clock positions so slots in the trailing arm bushing carrier still work for toe adjustment. If I weld the entire circumference of each bolt I will hAve to add a spcer the keep the trailing arm bushing above theexcess weld material.

Any glaring problems here? I'm not really keen about welding onto a unibody, but its' not a seam weld and I cannot fore see this being that big a deal.

Just my $00.02, but I would consider that less than best practice if for no other reason than a quality repair should look as original as the day the car was born. Modifications can look better than original, of course, but we we are welding on studs so that is not going to happen. I was hoping to see a photo of this deal so we could see how to go about removing the nut plate(s) for repair or replacement. If it went in it will come out. I'm not saying studs won't work, just saying.

Are helicoils an option?

Is a camera an option?

Or Timeserts?

or just re-tap one size up ----- if the next metric size up is too big consider using an inch size or vice versa.

Of course you would use friction drilling and tapping to conserve the remaining metal.

You guys were catching me in a phase of analysis paralysis. I re-tapped these myself and all id fine...apologies for all the crying...I took my skirt off when I finished. The tech used a much more course thread...I believe he just used a course thread bolt and didn't bother to tap the hole. I used the stock thread pitch/count one size larger.

I agree McGuire...I really didn't want to weld in studs.

gruntguru...very interesting video. I don't know if that technique would have worked; drilling from under the car and the section of threads is about 15mm thick...or 20mm, I cannot remember. Is that a techique for high torque conditions?

I considered timeserts/nutserts and helicoils but the trailing arm is a fairly important piece and the torque setting is 74 ft lbs. The bushing carrier also sees a lot of impact resonance.

Thank you all for your help!!! I'm keeping my fingers crossed...hopefully these hold.

Form drilling might work if you can flip the car upside down and then figure out a way to fasten a drill press to it. Works great on kitchenettes and lawn furniture, though.

Still curious... what are the nuts or nut plates, exactly?

I had planned to screw the studs in the existing holes. Then MIG weld these...the excess weld material around each bolt will prevent the bushing carrier from mating flush with the uni-body; the holes are elongated in one direction and barely wider than the bolt in the other. So I envisioned placing a spacer plate between the uni-body and bushing carrier to lower the bushing carrier below the excess weld material. This plate and bushing carrier mate flush and retain the ability to adjust toe. Yes, this will throw geometry off a bit since the bushing carrier will sit 3/16" - 1/8" lower...not sure how that might have affected camber/toe curves but I magine not by much.

Did I answer your question?

So I guess we will never know what kind of nuts/nut plates/whatever the bolts screw into. That is going to remain your little secret, it seems.

I think members should always accompany this type of query with photographs. Our abilty to make useful comments would be greatly enhanced.

Just like flirting online, pics or GTFO.

You would never trust THOSE pics.

You might not trust them but at least you can look at them.

Okay okay! I'll take pictures. You wine...I mean you win

In all seriousness, pictures are best...how do we load photos here? I cannot find rules about photos.

Find a photo hoster- tinypic.com is my favorite because you don't even need to create an account, you just upload and go- and post the resulting URL between image tags. Simple as that.

You need the web address of the picture - some picture storage sites give you the info but if not right click on the picture to get the web address, copy it and paste it into the 'insert image' option within the reply feature here and this will add the suffix for you automatically. If the image already as this prefix and suffix then don't use that option.

Click on reply on someones else's post with an image to see a text example.

I used tinypic.com. I'll take pictures of this area this weekend - no rain - and post on Monday. I already posted a picture in my DME and ABS thread...burned out Hydro Unit ASC photo