QUOTE (macoran @ Dec 27 2009, 10:13)

Tom I scanned and posted that when we were heavy on Sharknoses here, but the C&D issue was with a red background.
Did you filter that out ?
I keep wondering how come your black comes out so much more solid than in my scans.
P.S. you saved me digging up and scanning a lot of SCGs, busy you've been !!
Thanks for the great posts.
Marc,
I was figuring that you seem to be about as knowledgeable as anyone I have seen on this stuff, but was wondering if you had recognized that all of those color backgrounds were removed ... some a bit more cleanly than others. All of those were just cleaned out by deleting the areas. I try to do a Magic Wand selection, but that is really messy with the outlines so I usually try to clean that up by either deleting to black on the lines or deleting to white on the surround.
As to the lines, on one of those two-piece deals that has to be put together, then never match up well. I almost always do a lighten with increased contrast to help clean out all the stains and discoloration on each part. Rotate them and match something as a vertical and then piece the sections against that line. I will then go back to the contrast and lighten on one side and try to get them a touch closer before I flatten the whole thing.
Once they are put together, I go back and use a curves adjust to sort of S-curve it to darken the darks and lighten the lights, but by darkening the midrange a little more to strengthen the lines.
That would be when the close stuff on the outline is pulled out of the background, and any adjustments are made. Many of these are pretty faded, so I will do a Highlights adjust on the color to eliminate the yellow and the red, which usually gets rid of most of the discoloration.
They are then moved from RGB to greyscale mode ...
Think that about sums it up, other than trying to fill in the gaps and holes from the folds, staples, and whatever else they have been subjected to in the binding and handling over 50 or so years.
I usually pull them up to give a 300dpi original at about 17-inches, so they are almost printable if you don't get too picky. I pull them down to 2000 x whatever to post here, so they are usually a little under half the dimensional size that I have scanned.
Trying to match up those line shade areas when they are really butchered are probably the toughest, and I haven't been trying to make them perfect, just enough that you get a decent idea of what was there.
Hope is it working for you. I have done something like 70 of these things so I can just put a few out at a time, but it is taking a while to connect them, as you will know.
Hope this helps with the process.
Damn, it doesn't seem this complicated when I am doing these things ...
Tom West