10 replies to this topic

[ddmichael]

Hello,

Given that there appear to be a number of very skilled modellers on the forum, I thought I might ask for some advice. I'm currently building the Scale Racing Cars kit of the Honda RA302, and have had immeasurable trouble with the transfers, which appear to have no adhesive qualities whatsoever - this is the second sheet of transfers I have had for the kit, as the first lot had a similar fault and one of the main transfers was irreparably damaged . I had to wait over a year before a new set was delivered and am eager not to lose any this time. So, finally, my question is, is there anything I can use to stick these pesky things?

Any help would be much appreciated.

DM

[Slick]

If they are anything like the model of a DB9 I recently put together, you need to submerge the transfers in some water and they will slide off the sheet. Pick them out with fine tweezers or a cocktail stick and slide them into place on the model. The water will activate the adhesive.

Have to say I ripped a few before figuring it out.

[brucemoxon]

Check with your local hobby shop - they may have some advice.

You could scan the decals and print them on a fresh decal sheet. Water-slide transfer paper is available either on-line or from hobby shops, suitable for either ink-jet or laser printers.

Once they're on the model, you can spray them with a sealant.




Bruce Moxon

[SWB]

Waterslide decals (transfers) don't really have 'glue' to make them stick, it is the result of conforming to the paint surface and elimination of air that gives them the bond. Often decals are printed that are to stiff to conform to curved surfaces, usually because of thick decal carrier film or to much ink.

So what most modellers do is use one of two products made by Microsol, the first called 'Micro Set', used for softening the decal and improving adhesion, the second is 'Micro Sol', a stronger solution that helps decals conform to compound curves and into panel lines. In each case the decal is wetted in warm water, placed on the model and with a clean paint brush (a #3 sable brush for instance), some of the MIcrosol solution is brushed onto the decal, keeping it wet until it relaxes and settles onto the model. Deciding which product to use comes from experience, and certainly with thin decals using 'Micro Sol' can be frought with danger, but at other times it is just the thing you need. While waiting for the decal to relax a warm hair dryer wafted over the surface also helps the decal soften.

The Microsol products are available from all good model shops, especially in the USA, but in the UK you could try Grand Prix Models in Banbury.

Steve

Edited by SWB, 19 October 2009 - 20:55.

[glyn parham]

Waterslide decals (transfers) don't really have 'glue' to make them stick, it is the result of conforming to the paint surface and elimination of air that gives them the bond. Often decals are printed that are to stiff to conform to curved surfaces, usually because of thick decal carrier film or to much ink.

So what most modellers do is use one of two products made by Microsol, the first called 'Micro Set', used for softening the decal and improving adhesion, the second is 'Micro Sol', a stronger solution that helps decals conform to compound curves and into panel lines. In each case the decal is wetted in warm water, placed on the model and with a clean paint brush (a #3 sable brush for instance), some of the MIcrosol solution is brushed onto the decal, keeping it wet until it relaxes and settles onto the model. Deciding which product to use comes from experience, and certainly with thin decals using 'Micro Sol' can be frought with danger, but at other times it is just the thing you need. While waiting for the decal to relax a warm hair dryer wafted over the surface also helps the decal soften.

The Microsol products are available from all good model shops, especially in the USA, but in the UK you could try Grand Prix Models in Banbury.

SWB is right and you should be able to find these products in most good model shops in the UK, especially those specialising in model aircraft and radio controlled vehicles.

[ddmichael]

Thanks for your replies folks - this isn't the first time I've encountered difficult waterslide transfers, but certainly the most frustrating given the time and effort I've put into the kit. I think I'll try 'Micro Set' first and practice with a spare decal.

The sealant was my downfall last time round, for as one of the transfers hadn't quite stuck to the bodywork, the instant I sprayed it it shrivelled up and spoiled the paint job too.

Thanks also for the info on how to reproduce the transfers - I had no idea this was possible.

DM

[SWB]

Printing onto decal paper with your ink jet is more difficult than what is usually written on the instructions. The ink has a tendency to puddle and detail isn't good IMO. It can't of course print 'white' either, so workarounds are needed. There was once upon a time a thermal printer called an ALPS (or branded Citizen) that could print very fine decals, and with a 'white' ribbon in the set, but it seems to have died a death, in the UK at least.

If I were you I'd not seal the decals, they will still last years and years if you apply them properly. But if you do try lacquering them in, use a couple of very fine dry coats first that should be left to fully dry. This seals them and stops the thinners in the heavier coats attacking and shrivelling them up. If you use the same brand of paint all the way through from undercoat to clear lacquer it should stop any incompatability problems. So if you are using aerosol auto colours paint and seal with these first, then finally touch in detail with enamels (like Humbrol etc).

Steve

[Barry Boor]

If you are going to attempt to print your own decals, a word of advice. Standard inks, no mater what the printer, will RUN. I use an Epson C.86 printer with DURABRITE inks, which do not run on non-porous papers such as decal film.

They still need lacquering but the results that can be achieved are well worth the effort.



I made all the transfers on this model myself. Of course, you have to be reasonably adept on computer drawing programmes....

Edited by Barry Boor, 21 October 2009 - 12:15.

[D-Type]

Barry, is that an old picture or is the Connew model back together again?

[Barry Boor]

An old one, I'm sorry to say, Duncan.

I have done some restoration but my plan to make the rear suspension as accurate as possible is holding up the work. You see, Mr. Connew is very slow with the wishbone size details.

[Igor_E]

Thanks for your replies folks - this isn't the first time I've encountered difficult waterslide transfers, but certainly the most frustrating given the time and effort I've put into the kit. I think I'll try 'Micro Set' first and practice with a spare decal.

The sealant was my downfall last time round, for as one of the transfers hadn't quite stuck to the bodywork, the instant I sprayed it it shrivelled up and spoiled the paint job too.

Thanks also for the info on how to reproduce the transfers - I had no idea this was possible.

DM

Hi
I worked a lot with both Microset and Microsol ans here are my few pennies. Usually Microset is sufficient. It makes decal soft and greatly improves adhesion. I use it for most of surfaces, pretty much everywhere - wings, body, etc. I use Microsol when there is really uneven area, like driver figure and helmet. see few examples below.









Microsol is really "dangerous", one wrong touch and decal is history. You have to brush decal very lightly with this stuff, you'll see your decal "cringe" a bit, don't worry, just wait for 2 - 3 min, then you can use Q-tip to straighten it and conform to a surface. With Microset, you can adjust decal, move it around a bit to align with surface (it just softens decal), once you put Microsol, that's it, decal really becomes part of the model (you cannot move it anymore). All you do is tap on it to eliminate any imperfections. Keep in mind, then you use Q-tip, keep it absolutely perpendicular to the surface, slight angle, and decal breaks.

It really helps to practice with spare decals first, you also find how "sensitive" decal is to Microsol. I saw decals, completely disintegrating under Microsol and decals completely unaffected by Microset. So, use your judgment. and DO NOT RUSH!! you have to have lots of time and patience working with this stuff. Rush, and all work is ruined, be patient and accurate and you are rewarded with great looking model. Trust me, I was on both sides :-)

All the best and good luck
Igor

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