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Where to get heavy duty guides/slides 250kN


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#1 MatsNorway

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 08:30

I need it for a press tool.

 

Basically i want to replace this..thing..  https://dl.dropboxus...obb/MG13456.pdf with a "bed" under a press where i divert the force longitudally.

Basically im not confident in the design coming in at 16500$

 

Closest ive come so far is this http://www.pbclinear...ges/AllProducts

Normally i prefer firms like KIP and Norelem as they have an extensive catalog and a orderly page with CAD drawings and everything needed. http://www.norelem.c...t-overview.html

 

It works by lifting the torsjon bar in the senter and rotating it gently to get it into position. Then you mount a dismantling cup. Press out the old bushing and then i guess you lock it with either a quick release lever clamp or a screw mechanism (currently lever)

 

On top of the torsjon bar is a machined surface (arc down into torsjon bar) wich serves as reference point that you can adjust with a scew. From there the press mounts the bushing at its 12 +-1 degrees. Rotate the torsjon bar and then take the other side by simply taking out the holder for the bushing and mount it the other way. There is magnets to ensure positions of the different parts to ensure this goes quickly, consistent, without damages to parts and without fiddling about.

 

Thoughts on this i guess is ok too. The weakest part is the big lumps on top and bottom POS 4.. FEM says its getting tension at the edge from where it drops down from the big cylinder with the guide for the bushing mount.


Edited by MatsNorway, 14 July 2014 - 11:14.


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#2 Greg Locock

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 10:27

Just a general comment, your bolts look a bit small considering the size of the blocks. Given how little they cost, and how much drilling the holes for them costs, go for robustness. I thought you worked for the railways!

 

To be honest i'm not sure which bit you are calling  a slide. Why does the ram need a slide?



#3 MatsNorway

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 11:16

They just clamp. The notches is supposed to take the forces. the blocks is allready 70mm wide. You see. Because the sylinder pushing they get stretched out and thus give a squeese to the senter piece at the end there.  Actually so much so that i was worried about the clearance for the roller that supports the sylinder. Only place where the bolts gets stretched is at the back.  There is a small roller on the side of the cylinder mount. Page 7. 21mm with a 0 to +0.1 tolerance. Thats the only "slide" on that machine. Also where i was worried about clearance due to clamping effects. Hence the healthy clearance. It might be too much actually.

 

The guides are for an idea i have, to simplify this mess. i want to make this without a dedicated sylinder. using a existing press in the workshop.

https://dl.dropboxus...bb/3163_001.pdf


Edited by MatsNorway, 14 July 2014 - 11:25.


#4 MatsNorway

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Posted 21 July 2014 - 13:05

Simpler.jpg

Instead of rotating it..you just move it sideways.

Just a tiny bit cleaner don`t you think.. Ditched the magnet.. Before this i allready had removed the two angled bushing holders and made one.. angling the mount instead.

In addition we removed some time on the lathe as you have to mill the top anyway. As a bonus you get stiffness.

 

Please note that stuff that looks obvious now rarely is so in the beginning. I have formulated it as follows:  a touch of genius is the simplest thing.


Edited by MatsNorway, 21 July 2014 - 13:24.


#5 MatsNorway

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 21:49

Did not like it.. going to make a completely new one with the gained knowledge. Simpler, cheaper, more multipurpose, safer as in less unsurtency of it actually working as intended.

 

Ive wasted too much time on it. But the first time allways takes 10 times the work. Next time im going for a press or similar working machine i have basically the design in my head.



#6 Kelpiecross

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 04:10


I still don't understand what this machine is meant to do.

#7 Greg Locock

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 04:48

pushes a bushing out of the grey bar


Edited by Greg Locock, 24 July 2014 - 04:53.


#8 MatsNorway

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 06:53

out and in at an angle! 12 degrees +-1 tolerance. Main issue was to to hold the torsjonbar as there is allmost no machined surfaces.



#9 Greg Locock

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 10:40

Once upon a time in a galaxy far far away we had a stab bar that had to fit in various ways around the suspension. Our CAD guys drew beautiful drawings. our vendor swore blind he'd make them to print. Eventually we compromised, and built a go no-go gage from plywood, and they employed a heavily built guy to fit the sta bars to gage.

 

I doubt there's a car built that doesn't involve a big guy bending stuff to fit.



#10 MatsNorway

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 11:06

This is more tricky. i promise. you cant twist it once fitted. 20tonnes to mount it. And if you where to twist it you will destroy the rubber surrounding the drilled bit.

 

Bushing.jpg

 

Anyway the new design is basically done. The torsjonbar is btw. 1.35m long.

 

New%20press.jpg


Edited by MatsNorway, 28 July 2014 - 09:46.


#11 Canuck

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 12:36

If I had a choice: add a machined flat face on either side of the bushing eye that is perpendicular to the required bushing axis angle. That at least gives you something to orient to and a fixture face. I'd press both sides in and out at the same time so the fixturing / setup / handling is only one operation. The install angle - it's relative to what? 12 degrees in rotation or 12 degrees on axial centerline of the housing bore or?

#12 MatsNorway

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 13:37

12deg off to axial line on the bendt down part. angling is done with the grove and a wingnut to make it 100% tight. So the now circular part has been simplified for machining purposes.

Pressing is done on the outside on the splitted parts. I have enough travel to push out the old one and mount in one go i think. I believe i need two parts do do all kinds of operations. Parts needed are with old bushing mounted a sentering ring with a nice conical shape to aid in entering. And one to press it through that doubles as a spacer to get the required space between them. Without a bushing mounted you just mount the conical entering ring.

 

Im not sure i got what you meant canuck. It sounds like the thing im doing.


Edited by MatsNorway, 26 July 2014 - 13:40.