Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Modern hi performance ignition on older cars.


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 Lee Nicolle

Lee Nicolle
  • Member

  • 11,061 posts
  • Joined: July 08

Posted 11 November 2015 - 12:43

A discussion with a visitor here today about ignition system mods for older cars. I was doing some maintenance on my cruiser 71 Galaxie which nearly failed on me recently. A few years back I fitted a Crane multispark ignition box. That coupled with a modern Street Avenger Holley has made the car start and run nearly like a modern  efi car. BUT I forgot that the points [yes I am triggering it with the original style distributor] still wear out and closed up.

 

The  visitor, a know all know nothing reckoned I do need all that electronic crap. but believe me I do.

 

The car originally had a 780 vacc secondary Holley and totally standard ignition and while I could get Avgas at a reasonable price went quite well though unsurprisingly was a little flat down low with the big carb.. That stopped long ago and using 98 unleaded the car was a pig when cold and  barely adequate once warmed up. I fitted the modern Holley with a Performer manifold and it was a deal better, more driveable and a little better when cold. I bough a el cheapo Pro Comp  HEI dissy, it started better but the advance curve was different every time I started the car and the detonation [crook dissy coupled with very bad 98] broke a piston. I do not recomend that stuff!

 

Engine rebuild later I fitted a base model Crane ignition, using a Bosch [ The Autolite was buggered]   points version of factory Ford dissy. Since then the car has been so much better when cold, uses a bit less fuel and is more responsive at low engine speed. As I said nearly as good as a modern car. I am using 98 octane unleaded still as it does have compression. It will run on 91 but poorly. But will get me to a site selling 98.

Fuel quality though can be very noticeable. A good tank of fuel will be a pleasure, a bad tank not so. That is where computer  controlled ignition  masks bad fuel. Though the economy shows it . In modern cars sometimes 98 will produce far better power and economy,, Sometimes!

 

Sure I know it could be a LOT better. A  good electronic distributor would be a big improvement  but the car is a cruiser and seldom ever sees the secondaries and more than 3000 rpm. The odd occasion the motor is 'used' it still has probably never seen more than 5000. It is a 2 tonne tank with 3.00 rear end so 5000 is the best part of 100mph in second gear. Another magnetic dissy will eventually turn up at a swap!

 

With this as an experience I have recomended many to do similar and have fitted a couple for customers. All cruisers though one with a pretence of being sporty.  4, 6 &8cyl cars. Results have been mixed, all better but in degrees. It appears that some 60s 70 early 80s engines are less effected by unleaded than others.  Though some were dogs when new in 86 when unleaded was introduced. I know people that have 'upgraded' on those cars too with improved results.

I have fitted Mallory and MSD units too, to me they all seem to work in a similar manner at least on street cruiser/ hacks. whatever is the best price. though,, please buy reputable brands, not elcheapo Chinese rip offs. 

 

The benefits are not nearly as pronounced with good fuel, [Avgas] though are undoubtedly there. IF you can burn unleaded though it does keep the engines far cleaner than the old leaded fuel ones. I do know people racing on unleade by preference, a lot of time , money and dyno time though to get said results. E85 is another story, but again expensive but can make good power, seemingly great for turbo engines. Use valve saver compound though at all times. Or the valves will burrow up the ports and the guides go oval. Seen lots of those!

I believe the benefits can be considerable on older  engines on LPG too. The plugs do come out clean, not yellow flowers!

 

Modern engines with individual coil packs are usually perfectly ok for every day use. Though like all electronics [inc these multispark units] do fail and cause grief. Hence my visitors comments today.

 

 These are critical on voltage, good earths and will accentuate problems with plug leads, dissy caps etc. Be carefull they can bite, the associated modern coils have considerable voltage and amperage. Hence again my visitors comments. I have suffered this myself, put the racer on the trailer Saturday running fine, got to the track Sunday and no spark.Grrrr, I never worked out what fixed it as I chased every connection and it then ran fine!,,, On Monday! I usually carry a twin point with coil,, but when needed I left it behind.

 

I guess plenty of others have comments and experience with these things. This is in the nature of giving info and also learning more for myself.


Edited by Lee Nicolle, 11 November 2015 - 12:52.


Advertisement

#2 Bob Riebe

Bob Riebe
  • Member

  • 3,021 posts
  • Joined: January 05

Posted 11 November 2015 - 17:27

Well the old saying goes, points, plugs, condenser..

 

If you keep everything from the plugs to the distributor in good condition and tuned, problems should be few and be able to be traced to an alternative culprit.

 

A fellow once came to my house, said he had put in new plugs and the car ran worse than before.

 

I asked him if he had gapped the plugs and he said no, so I pulled the plugs.

 

Some had ZERO gap.



#3 desmo

desmo
  • Tech Forum Host

  • 29,520 posts
  • Joined: January 00

Posted 11 November 2015 - 19:02

I no longer gap my plugs when installing if they look right. I've found that the little plastic tube they put over the end prevents the gap being closed by careless handling. This after checking a lot of plugs from the box and finding the gap within a hundreth inch or two. Worth a visual inspection still though.

#4 Lee Nicolle

Lee Nicolle
  • Member

  • 11,061 posts
  • Joined: July 08

Posted 11 November 2015 - 21:45

I no longer gap my plugs when installing if they look right. I've found that the little plastic tube they put over the end prevents the gap being closed by careless handling. This after checking a lot of plugs from the box and finding the gap within a hundreth inch or two. Worth a visual inspection still though.

Problem with that is the same plug can be used in a variety of engines and the 'official' gap can be quite different, eg 28-32 or 34-38 etc. The better the ign  generally the larger the gap within reason.

Though like many the official gap for many engines with HEI ignition factory is 60 thou. In practice though you have to close them down to around 50 or the engine will misfire and be bloody awfull cold.

HEI came around the late 70s early 80s and was a vaste improvement over points but still nowhere as good as multi spark.

Because in effect I did not know better my old Sports Sedan used a factory Chev HEI ignition. To be fair it was pretty good and never caused any problems. BUT setting the timing with the timing light it would actually lose advance over about 6500. At 7200 or so it had lost about 3 degrees. Reputedly MSD [and others] make better modules that largely resolve this. Though the module I used was the one the engine came with and I used  for near 20 years.

My 6 cyl Holden  race engines use factory Bosch HEI and run to over 6500 with no drama. Though with those always use genuine Bosch modules, anything else is junk. And for race engines at least use the solid state coils too. Ideally NOT mounted on the engine as the viabration and heat can kill them. The OEM fluid filled coils seldom ever have problems though mounted on the engine. The solid state though do fail even on road cars. I once changed one on the side of the road on a 40 deg day.Going racing. Using the race car spare.



#5 NeilR

NeilR
  • Member

  • 623 posts
  • Joined: October 09

Posted 12 November 2015 - 09:40

An advertiser in my magazine manufactures tetraethyl lead solution for vintage and historic cars. Adds up to 5 RON points. Perhaps that would help? It is legal in Australia and USA.



#6 Magoo

Magoo
  • Member

  • 3,718 posts
  • Joined: October 10

Posted 13 November 2015 - 13:27

Excellent point on spark plug gaps with ultra high energy ignition systems, Lee.

 

A wide spark plug gap is very hard on the insulation in the secondary ignition circuit. Burns holes in plug boots and plug wire insulation; burns carbon tracks in distributor caps, rotors, coils, and coil packs. .060 inch is not too horribly terrible with contemporary parts and materials, but the spec is .080 in some applications, which is hell. It's essentially an open circuit and if the 40 to 60,000 volts of high-tension energy can't jump the plug gap for whatever reason, it will jump somewhere and will damage something. 

 

EDIT: When the spec gap is .080, I will close it down to .060 for the sake of reliability. I'm sure there must be a tradeoff somewhere, but I'm not clear what it is. 


Edited by Magoo, 13 November 2015 - 13:29.


#7 Lee Nicolle

Lee Nicolle
  • Member

  • 11,061 posts
  • Joined: July 08

Posted 13 November 2015 - 23:25

Excellent point on spark plug gaps with ultra high energy ignition systems, Lee.

 

A wide spark plug gap is very hard on the insulation in the secondary ignition circuit. Burns holes in plug boots and plug wire insulation; burns carbon tracks in distributor caps, rotors, coils, and coil packs. .060 inch is not too horribly terrible with contemporary parts and materials, but the spec is .080 in some applications, which is hell. It's essentially an open circuit and if the 40 to 60,000 volts of high-tension energy can't jump the plug gap for whatever reason, it will jump somewhere and will damage something. 

 

EDIT: When the spec gap is .080, I will close it down to .060 for the sake of reliability. I'm sure there must be a tradeoff somewhere, but I'm not clear what it is. 

Never really thought about that. But it sure is the truth in hindsight. HEI has always done that and hi intensity is even worse.

If using HEI or hi intensity ign with modified engines, or old spec engines that use less gap orginally I have found open the gap up to the max of the std gap. eg 34-38 use 38. Do not try to open the gaps to 60.

And if it does say 60 think about it, it may be find in perfect engines in perfect conditions. A serviceable well used engine on a cold damp day and you will have sparks going everywhere.

Any decent ign will show you how bad the leads and cap etc are on a very cold damp night. It will just be a light show. Even when the engine even then is running ok you will see it. Headers that are close top a plug will also see spark jumping. 

My old beast bit me yesterday resetting the timing as I grabbed the cap to turn the dissy. Hurts!