The simracing hardware thread

I’ve been thinking about buying a wheel for a while but I can’t really decide on what I want so I always postpone it... I am looking for input on what to buy!

It has to work on the PS4/5 and pc and I found the Logitech g923, does anyone have this one?

I’ve been thinking about buying a wheel for a while but I can’t really decide on what I want so I always postpone it... I am looking for input on what to buy!

 

It has to work on the PS4/5 and pc and I found the Logitech g923, does anyone have this one?

I don't have a G923, but I have a last-gen G920, which is just the Xbox version of the G29.

I'm not sure if you're aware, but the G29 is also compatible with both consoles. The G29 is pretty much the same minus some aesthetical changes and is cheaper. The Trueforce force feedback system on the G923 seems like a gimmick imo, plus it's only compatible with a few games anyways. Here in the UK you can save £100-£150 by going for the G29 over the G923. 

I love my G920, and I've gotten well over 1000 hours of use over the past couple of years with no problems, so I personally would recommend the G29. I'd still take a look at some reviews on websites and YouTube etc. but I hope this helps.

Feel free to ask anymore questions if you have any.

Josh

Hello, here are my 2 cents on the topic

For about the last 6 years I've been using Thrustmaster (yes I know) wheels, on a PS4.

First the 150 and now the T300RS. They have proven to be real workhorses for me.

To be honest the whole setup I have is dedicated to the F1 2020 (and earlier) game so I really can't comment on using it with other software.

As with a lot of other wheels the nice thing abot the T300RS is the ability to swap out the round wheel, and late last year I did just that.

I went with a new wheel from Acelith Design in Italy.

My thoughts:

Ordering was easy, feedback from them was very helpful, delivery was painless (I live in Canada west of Toronto)

Installation of the new wheel took all of about 8 minutes, all the existing buttons fit the new wheel like a glove.

Force feedback now seems less heavy handed and more accurate, I thought with the reduced weight of the wheel that wouldn't be the case but I was wrong.

Curves, especially hairpins seems a lot more natural, I know that may not make sense but thats how it feels to me. Zandvoort is now an absolute joy to drive.

This wheel has what they call a soft touch plastic grips, no idea how that works but it does.

I really wish everyone lived nearby and there was no Covid, I'd love to let everyone have a hands on experience.

Looking for a new wheel can be quite exciting, I wish you all the best in your quest. Get what works for you, it's your money.

Ford

Long term G29 user. G25 before that. 

Absolutely fine. I would consider myself a heavy user, but can't justify the jump up in cost for DD or the mid level Fanatecs. 

I will be upgrading my pedals this year, but the stock ones are perfectly serviceable. 

Logitech-guy here as well. DFGT -> G27 and G29 after my G27 gave up halfway through 2020.

I consider myself a fairly serious simracer, in the sense that I have been staff at RaceDepartment since 2012, and hosts both rF2 events and a rally championship there. I have tried DD-wheel, and while it is better. I really can't justify the costs when a Logitech wheel works more than good enough!

I did keep my G27 shifter and bought a bodnar cable for it though, so I have the shifter as a "button box" as well.

Thanks for the input! It’s looking likely I’ll get the g920/923 at some point 

One thing with the logitech pedals, try and keep the area they're in clean and free of dust. If you have pets, consider covering them when not in use. The potentiometers inside them seem to have a their own gravitational pull for hair and dust which makes the input trace a bit wobbly. 

I've become a dab hand at servicing them over the years (disassemble, blow out with air/IPA, reassemble) but it's a bit of a faff. 

Speaking of which, during the final stages of the iRacing Daytona 24 at the weekend and a whisky to the better, I finally pressed go on some Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals. 

I recently got a Logitech G920 and love it.

I play mostly F1/GT games (F12020/ACC etc) so I purchased a wheel mod from MVH Studios as below. It took about a month to come and was really easy to install but it is excellent and much better to me than the stock wheel.

https://mvhstudios.c...itech-g920-xbox

My DFGT is going on 10 years and still strong. Admittedly, it had holidays of a few years before getting back to being used thanks to Covid...

One day, I wanna have Fanatec gear. But by that time hopefully life is busy enough that I won't have time to use it.

How insanely expensive would shipping a wheel and pedals to Portugal from Wisconsin be? 

How insanely expensive would shipping a wheel and pedals to Portugal from Wisconsin be? 

Bizarrely, I've got family in Wisconsin (really) and they've sent us stuff, but never anything as heavy as simracing gear 

A quick search tells me it's something like 12 dollars per pound which is crazy. I appreciate the good intentions man but you're better off selling the gear to someone in the US. 

Perhaps a revival of this thread or a last stutter towards oblivion: yesterday evening I ordered a Logitech G29 with an extra separate shifter. Tonight I already thought about canceling. New equipment always make me very, very nervous.

But I saw some reviews about it, and it seems very sturdy, very good (in this price range) in force-feedback... And I have never had a wheel that really gave feedback of the physics of the car, so if that would really work... I race a lot online with F1 2014 with a gamepad and I will use the wheel with rFactor with cars that have a manual stick simulation and clutch. Three pedals, you see... 

Edited by Nemo1965, 11 February 2021 - 11:05.

Perhaps a revival of this thread or a last stutter towards oblivion: yesterday evening I ordered a Logitech G29 with an extra separate shifter. Tonight I already thought about canceling. New equipment always make me very, very nervous.

 

But I saw some reviews about it, and it seems very sturdy, very good (in this price range) in force-feedback... And I have never had a wheel that really gave feedback of the physics of the car, so if that would really work... I race a lot online with F1 2014 with a gamepad and I will use the wheel with rFactor with cars that have a manual stick simulation and clutch. Three pedals, you see... 

You should be absolutely fine. It's the "base" wheel the vast majority of simracers use, or start with. G29, G27, G25, G920, G923, it's all basically the same thing. It's reliable and pretty much every driving game released on the last 15 years will instantly recognise it and be optimized for it.

I would massively recommend switching from the gamepad to the wheel in the F1 game as well. You might be slower at the beginning though. Takes a LOT of mental readjustment to driving with a wheel if you're used to gamepads/keyboards/mouses/joysticks/telepathy.

You should be absolutely fine. It's the "base" wheel the vast majority of simracers use, or start with. G29, G27, G25, G920, G923, it's all basically the same thing. It's reliable and pretty much every driving game released on the last 15 years will instantly recognise it and be optimized for it.

 

I would massively recommend switching from the gamepad to the wheel in the F1 game as well. You might be slower at the beginning though. Takes a LOT of mental readjustment to driving with a wheel if you're used to gamepads/keyboards/mouses/joysticks/telepathy.

Thanks for the feedback, Noikee (no pun intended). And the encouragement.... I don't think I am going to use the wheel for my evening long binges online, because I run regularly about two and half hours of short races between 5 and 15 laps in the evening... and then I go to bed. I used to have a wheel, without real force feedback (just force back!) and I was amazed how tired I got after just ten minutes of playing.

With the gamepad I often run 100 percent length races at the highest AI-level I can get to. My brother, who sometimes joins me in online races, lasts two races of five laps - and then he's knackered! Not surprising: I have been playing racing games since I was 16 and know all the F1-tracks inside out and then some. Much less tiring if you don't have to think: 'Oh ****, where is this corner going to lead to?'

So my idea will be to run rFactor and especially non-open wheel cars with the wheel and shifter and mostly the gamepad with 'easier' games as F1 2014 or in the future modern iterations. I have a hidden motive as well to do more realistic games with the wheel...

Regarding the OP: in my short bout of research I've found that Logitech are the most used, most valued wheel for the regular gamer, Fanatec is the more expensive choice and Thrustmaster is the value for price candidate. Would that be a fair assessment?

Edited by Nemo1965, 11 February 2021 - 19:10.

Fanatec the "proper" option,

Fanatec is the final step before the proper option. (They do have DD wheels, which is the proper option so they may be the actual final step.)

Fanatec is the final step before the proper option. (They do have DD wheels, which is the proper option so they may be the actual final step.)

Well yeah.. you can spend as much as you like on hardware, and go into the thousands of dollars, there's no ceiling 

Logitech may be the cheap option, but it's a surprisingly robust option.  For something made of plastic they're remarkable.  I've had my G27 for probably 12 years by now, and it's still going strong.

My Logitech seems also very strong... I admire how they designed the clamps: it are screws you first have to turn tight, then you press them in a slot, like a key.

But anyways, that is not why I wanted to post. In the thread about Dirt 2, I almost got derailed and derailed the thread almost, because of my astonishment about what some people here (and everywhere in the world!) use as rotation for their wheel. 900 degrees? For Formula 1-games?

I got DR2 recently and have mixed feelings about it

 

First time I went into it, after spending 20 minutes fixing my force feedback, it felt awesome with the Mitsubishi Lancer Group A. Just really a ton of fun.

 

Then I started a career with the historic cars and first the ****ing thing doesn't automatically set the steering wheel degrees of rotation per car, I have to constantly set it car by car outside of the game, then it just feels mushy undetailed and unresponsive with the historic car (it's a Datsun I think, or the Lancia Fulvia). Disappointing after the first "woah this is actually really good" moment.

Set the rotation to 540 degrees in your wheel driver and calibrate it like that inside the game, every car will be fine like that. Codemasters still doesn't want to acknowledge that every wheel has 900+ degrees rotation now above entry level.

Usually this is pretty simple and very quick to check if it's working well or not. If you turn your wheel 90º left, the wheel shown in game should also turn exactly 90º left. Turn it 180º it should turn 180º (upside down). Etc.

 

In some particular circumstances, some people will want it to not match exactly how it is in-game, which won't be realistic, but if you enjoy for example a slightly pointier car with less steering precision, and the lack of realism doesn't bother you, that's fine.

 

I wonder if you have something set wildly wrong to want much lower rotation. Maybe you have too strong force feedback and are struggling to turn in? And therefore are trying to compensate by getting the car to shoot into the corner with only the tiniest bit of steering. Personally I like force feedback quite light, I just want the information to be there to gently tell me what the car is doing, and give me just a little resistance into the corner, but I want it to be light enough so I can make sharp steering without too much effort.

You are all driving me mad! I will make a short film about my wheel and rotation because I think there is some huge misunderstanding about what 320 degrees of rotation mean. 

 

News follows...

I've tested my wheel (with H-stick shift and clutch pedal) extensively for two weeks and read A LOT of posts of fellow-confused gamers on several sites. Some remarks:

1. First: a mistake I made was that I thought that the return-spring range (so when it starts rewinding itself to the center) and the maximum rotation were one and the same. Obviously: they are not. At the end of the rotation set, the wheel CAN'T turn further, but if you set the rotation to 900 degrees, the wheel will turn and return to its center, three times if necessary. So sometimes it does not matter if you set the wheel with your drive-software to 900 degrees... However...

2. The in-wheel turn of Codemasters F1-games can not be set correctly. I've always wondered how it was possible to play these games so nicely straight out of the box, even with a gamepad on the standard settings. If you play iRacing or Rfactor with a gamepad, you first have to fiddle a lot with the settings to even get the car driving on the straights. Not with the F1 20xx games. Even with ALL the aids of, you can drive perfectly and comfortable around with any game-controller... even with the keyboard (not advisable!)

My guess: Codemasters have put a very smart (probably extensively tested) speed-sensitivity code IN the game. With that I mean: a plugin or .dll that reduces and enhances turning at the appropriate moments. Ask yourself this: how many times does it happen that if you turn in a slow corn, in any F1 20xx game, the car understeers? Really? Or, reversely: that you steer in an ultra-corner the car oversteers?

Test it for yourself. Go to the Melbourne-track. Drive out of the pits and find a spot to park your car. Then, with the driver-software of your wheel, synchronise the movement of your wheel on your play-seat (or desk, in my case) and the in-game wheel. Then drive a lap. Pay attention when you take corner 5, almost flat-out. You will find that your hands on your wheel are in almost full lock. The wheel in the car is NEVER turned more than 90 degrees. 

3. What really bothers me about the Codemaster game and controllers, is that you can't manually save a certain controller setting and give it a specific name. When I had not yet installed the Logitech own software-hub (Github), the game recognised the controller (not exactly, but it saw it was a Logitech, so hey!). If you could save a certain setting, you can find it back in the folder 'Actionmap' and for example edit some of the camera-standpoints. However, since I installed the driver-software of my wheel, the game only refers to my setting as 'custom'.

What seems to work well is set my software for the wheel itself (outside of the game) on 270 degrees, and then fiddle around with saturation, linearity and such. In rFactor, I got the right settings more and less nailed. But for F1 2014, for example, my settings are TOTALLY different from what I read in most recommendations. And I just ignore the in game steering wheel as irrelevant eye-candy.

Edited by noikeee, 27 February 2021 - 19:01.

Yeah maybe there's something with Codemasters games, on other "normal" sims that aren't suited for the mass market of users with controllers it's really quite simple. Set max degrees outside the game (in Logitech software). In-game it will recognise the wheel and set the degrees correctly. Reduce force feedback in-game until its comfortable. Done. That's how I do rf2, AC, ACC, no issues.

I don't recall having problems with F1 2020 though, it's just Dirt Rally 2 that's annoying. Maybe earlier F1 games were annoying as well.

Obviously I don't use the full 900 degrees of rotation with F1 cars. It's more like 270 or 360. But it *should* be the game's job to limit it to the car's appropriate range of rotation, not the Logitech software's job. And it should be the game's job to accurately reproduce the rotation I'm doing in my wheel, in the in-game rendered wheel.

Well, shoulda, coulda, woulda. If I set the degrees to 900 rotation I just steer off the track in Codemasters Universe. 270 degrees is fine in the F1-games of that developer, I have to ignore the steering wheel in game. In rFactor, however, I've got the wheel spot on, whatever mod I use... if I set the rotation of the Logitech to the same rotation of the config files of rFactor...

Now if I only get the stick shift to work in GP Legends and Richard Burns-rally...

Pedals, pedals, pedals. I tried a wheel, cheap basic t150, and I was seconds per lap slower, it was brutal. Did hundreds of laps and each one was horrible. 1) steering lock seemed incredibly high, as in always crossing my arms over like it ws a 60's caddie but big issue 2) pedals, zero resistance, zero feel, absolutely hopeless.

Went back to a DS4, if I go back to a wheel it will be a proper rig. 

Is the Logitech G920 the Xbox version of the Logitech 29? Then I am surprised that you increase the sensitivity in F1-games. The first couple of laps I drove I kept coming to a standstill before a corner and I had to SOFTEN the extent of braking. But I agree with the word 'harsh'. The travel is quite short and for trail-braking I just have to 'inch' the pedal.

Talking about pedals: I am learning to race with a stick-shift and clutch with my G29. I use a BMW M3 in rFactor for that. Of course real racing with stick-shift entails double-clutching and heel toe, which I still have to learn. Are the pedals of the Logitech in the wrong place or are my feet too big? (Size 12). I almost have to dislocate my ankle to be able to keep my foot on the brake and rev at the same time!

PS: I got my time down to 2.09 at the new Zandvoort-track, which is about the times the AI make at 100 percent. So I am not unhappy.

Edited by Nemo1965, 10 March 2021 - 08:15.

Is the Logitech G920 the Xbox version of the Logitech 29? Then I am surprised that you increase the sensitivity in F1-games. The first couple of laps I drove I kept coming to a standstill before a corner and I had to SOFTEN the extent of braking. But I agree with the word 'harsh'. The travel is quite short and for trail-braking I just have to 'inch' the pedal.

 

Talking about pedals: I am learning to race with a stick-shift and clutch with my G29. I use a BMW M3 in rFactor for that. Of course real racing with stick-shift entails double-clutching and heel toe, which I still have to learn. Are the pedals of the Logitech in the wrong place or are my feet too big? (Size 12). I almost have to dislocate my ankle to be able to keep my foot on the brake and rev at the same time!

 

PS: I got my time down to 2.09 at the new Zandvoort-track, which is about the times the AI make at 100 percent. So I am not unhappy.

Have you tried Assetto Corsa? (the original Assetto Corsa, not Assetto Corsa Competizione). It's just like rFactor with **** tons of mods from the modern to the historical, but so much better looking if you install Content Manager, Sol and CSP. It's basically what rFactor was but with 10 years of extra evolution on top, so everything's better, physics, graphics, everything. It usually comes up in Steam Sales at ridiculous prices, like 10€ for all DLCs, I'd recommend waiting for a sale like this.

I recently fixed the force feedback in my old Logitech DFGT wheel in Assetto Corsa by using a configuration file, and it's almost like a new game, it's excellent. There's this list of files on Race Department that improves FFB dramatically for this game for Logitech wheels.

Oh and here's a little bit of spam so I can show off what you're missing out on    Here's a hotlap on a Group C Porsche car, and an online race I did last week on a modern road car (the GT86).

Edited by noikeee, 10 March 2021 - 10:30.

Have you tried Assetto Corsa? (the original Assetto Corsa, not Assetto Corsa Competizione). It's just like rFactor with **** tons of mods from the modern to the historical, but so much better looking if you install Content Manager, Sol and CSP. It's basically what rFactor was but with 10 years of extra evolution on top, so everything's better, physics, graphics, everything. It usually comes up in Steam Sales at ridiculous prices, like 10€ for all DLCs, I'd recommend waiting for a sale like this.

 

I recently fixed the force feedback in my old Logitech DFGT wheel in Assetto Corsa by using a configuration file, and it's almost like a new game, it's excellent. There's this list of files on Race Department that improves FFB dramatically for this game for Logitech wheels.

 

Oh and here's a little bit of spam so I can show off what you're missing out on    Here's a hotlap on a Group C Porsche car, and an online race I did last week on a modern road car (the GT86).

Thanks for the tip, you're so very friendly! I have an embarrassing reason to postpone installing new games and that is my old computer... But I will see if it could handle Assetto Corsa, I've heard so many good things about it!

Regarding online racing: only in the codemasters universe I try THAT. For iRacing or heavier stuff I am just too damn slow, especially with the wheel now...

An update of my private wheel-related enterprises, perhaps interesting for other readers who like to buy a wheel, I've just installed Assetto Corsa on my poor workhorse computer. (Thanks Noikkee!). On THIS game you can really fine-tune the wheel to match everything: the rotation of the in wheel game and the reaction of the game on the wheel. Excellent. One snag: Assetto Corsa apparently does not allow you to dedicate buttons that ordinary mortals need when racing in a game: for example the pause button. Not even with Joytokey.

Another (minor) thing: the clutch pedal does not work as accurately in Assetto Corsa as it does in my old rFactor-game. There not clutching RIGHT in changing gears, or even not matching the revs with the gears, makes the car spin away. On the one hand, that gives AC a much more pleasant ride... on the other hand it takes away a little bit of the pride you can have in a good double clutch 5 to 2...

Glad you're enjoying it.  Been doing a lot of Assetto Corsa myself lately too, I'm kinda going back to it after getting a bit bored with ACC and RF2.

Can't help on the clutch pedal thing, because I don't have a clutch pedal! As for pause, I press ESC on the keyboard, don't think it's possible to map it to steering wheel buttons but I could be wrong.

Glad you're enjoying it.  Been doing a lot of Assetto Corsa myself lately too, I'm kinda going back to it after getting a bit bored with ACC and RF2.

 

Can't help on the clutch pedal thing, because I don't have a clutch pedal! As for pause, I press ESC on the keyboard, don't think it's possible to map it to steering wheel buttons but I could be wrong.

I fear you are not wrong. It is a minor nuisance because Assetto Corsa is the first game I ever played that I did not need an hour to set up the wheel right... while, again, in every game you can play immediately with a gamepad... Regarding a clutch and stickshift: it is a gem to use. I've been downloading stuff like crazy. I drove the Tyrrel Six-wheeler, with stick-shift. Wonderful fun.

Regarding pedals: I am seriously considering (I must be crazy) adapting the pedals. The clutch of the L29 has a nice amount of travel but it misses the 'get it over the hill'-feeling a real clutch has... For the brake, I would much prefer a longer travel and an increasing feeling of loading the brakes... Logitech has tried to emulate a loading cell with this model, but they have not quite succeeded. I am used to it now, for trail-braking I use about an inch of travel... the rest of the travel is just like throwing an 1000 pound anchor over your shoulder. The first couple of hours I just screeched to a standstill in front of the chicanes of Monza. Of course, better than the other way round...

I’ve been thinking about buying a wheel for a while but I can’t really decide on what I want so I always postpone it... I am looking for input on what to buy!

 

It has to work on the PS4/5 and pc and I found the Logitech g923, does anyone have this one?

Logitech G920 user on my Series X. Initially took some getting used to having not used a wheel prior. I'm not into e-sports that much, but use it at least once a week and it's worth the £180 it costed in the Amazon sales. Sturdy as anything, good quality and does give you the sim feel with the paddles. Only thing that I found a bit odd for F1 2020 was pretending the clutch wasn't there on the pedal board, but you get used to it pretty quick.

I was sort of half mistaken that you can't assign buttons in Assetto Corsa: you can. In two ways: use the profiler of your wheel or gamepad to assign the commands that are written in the game as keyboard-commands (usually something like Control + Something). Or you can use a program called Content Manager to assign buttons to the wheel... (Noikkeee, if you could not find them in the program, PM me, it was a bastard finding the right page).

With the first method, some cars accept the commands, other don't. With the second most cars seem to accept the commands but it seems to throw off the commands I programmed into the profiler of my Logitech. My guess is in Windows 10 there are still Dos-commands that kind of peep up from the cemetery and start doing things.

If I have time I could try to place all my racing games under Content Manager (if that would be possible, technically), combine the commands so I don't have to remember %@#$ commands for $%^@#@ racing games!
 

So, having upgraded my base logi pedals to Thrustmaster T-LCM's (*and modded them already) I am now looking longingly at wheel upgrades. The G29 notchiness and rattle is really annoying me, having got used to superior build quality of the TM pedals. 

Budget has me looking at the TM T300 combos, but I have a mate in my ear waxing lyrical about his Fanatec CSL. I'm not sure I can justify double the price, I'd rather put that towards an ultrawide monitor. 

Just don't know if the T300 is a big enough leap from a G29. So say, the CSL isn't a massive step up from a T300 (but superior in most factors). If i get the T300, will i regret not going the whole hog?

If i get the T300, will i regret not going the whole hog?

I've been a T300 user for 3 years now and I'm completely happy with it (although I switched from a DFGT, so the step was bigger than in your case), but when it wears out, I'll probably upgrade to Fanatec as well. Those who already did the switch are satisfied in general, Fanatec products feel less toyish and the FFB is also stronger. Also their ecosystem is great with many add-ons and stuff.

The only annoying thing about the T300 is the screw-based wheel attachment mechanism, but luckily there are great mods for that

So, having upgraded my base logi pedals to Thrustmaster T-LCM's (*and modded them already) I am now looking longingly at wheel upgrades. The G29 notchiness and rattle is really annoying me, having got used to superior build quality of the TM pedals. 

Budget has me looking at the TM T300 combos, but I have a mate in my ear waxing lyrical about his Fanatec CSL. I'm not sure I can justify double the price, I'd rather put that towards an ultrawide monitor. 

Just don't know if the T300 is a big enough leap from a G29. So say, the CSL isn't a massive step up from a T300 (but superior in most factors). If i get the T300, will i regret not going the whole hog?

As someone who owned the T300 and made the jump to Fanatec gear (clubsport, not CSL) I can tell you there is a hefty difference in quality and user experience. 

I loved everything about the T300 and raced it with the stock wheel and the Ferrari F1 addon. It was great and gave me a lot of joy driving. When I got back into some more serious (team based) iRacing I found myself to be much more consistent with the Fanatec gear (V3 pedals as well, but I don't know the T-LCMs so can't judge). And it feels a lot better in hand. Build quality is supreme. 

But then the counter argument: there's always an upgrade for everything. Even from Fanatec there's a jump towards higher end gear easily possible. I find it easy to get tempted to keep aiming for the higher equipment but of course in terms of use, fun and quality there are diminishing returns. So I'd advise anyone to not step in that hole too easily, but make a very conscious decision about your goals with the purchase and which one suits your requirements best. 

For a semi-casual sim or arcade racer the T300 probably has everything on offer that you need. If you want to get serious (race simulations like iRacing, Rfactor, ACC, in stead of games) and spend quite some time in the simulator I'd bet my money on the Fanatec gear. 

Just saw last night that Fanatec are launching an entry level Direct Drive wheelbase (only 5 or 8Nm depending on power supply option...Logi is 2.5(?) and CSL 6Nm IIRC) at a similar price point to the CSL (~350 Euros). 

I'm not really in the market for one (i'd need a rig to bolt to) but hopefully it might drop the price of the CSL? Here's hoping.

Edited by Peat, 22 April 2021 - 07:22.

Seems to me they have whittled away any place the clubsport and CSL lineup had. It's also no longer on their website it looks like.

So second hand market should be great for clubsport from now on. Or if you want new equipment, just wait out the direct drive. It's an insane deal at that price point even with the slightly weaker peak power output. 

I switched to directdrive after my clubsport V2.5 and the difference is massive. 

Yeah, I'm thinking of sticking a pre-order in so I have one ready for next winter. All aboard the hypetrain. 

It's a big move from Fanatec, I imagine it has Thrustmaster reeling this morning. Also all the Simucube/Simmagic folks pumping out DD's at the £1k mark. 

And also should we make a separate sim racing hardware thread?

I'll rename this one

I'll rename this one

Good idea!

Just saw last night that Fanatec are launching an entry level Direct Drive wheelbase (only 5 or 8Nm depending on power supply option...Logi is 2.5(?) and CSL 6Nm IIRC) at a similar price point to the CSL (~350 Euros). 

I'm not really in the market for one (i'd need a rig to bolt to) but hopefully it might drop the price of the CSL? Here's hoping.

I've had a GT Omega rig (with a T30RS) for 4 years, and I love it very much. It would take the Fanatec DD, but I'd think I'd want something tougher for the high end DD wheels. Just FYI.

 

That new direct drive wheelbase is €50 cheaper than the CSL, which makes me think that there must be a catch in order for it to be cheaper than their cheapest wheelbase...
 

I don't think there is a catch, there's just a lot fewer parts inside, so it's cheaper to make.  I suspect this will replace the CSL entirely in thier line-up.

I got myself the Fanatec DD2, but if I didn't have it, I'd most certainly be interested in the low end DD from them. Its a very good price and I'm running my DD2 at 4nm, so it wouldn't be even that big of a deal. With the DD2 at 8nm I loved, that you had to excercise some force, but I had to hold the wheel strongly in some corners, which was also fine, but sometimes the road would be bumpy in AMS2 (Spa) and the wheel would twitch in my hand and I'd feel pain inside my wrists and they would ache later. Thought - eff that s***, its not worth it, I don't want to screw my hands up because of simracing, so I just tuned it down. For reference, my hands and wrists are on the thin-bone side. 

Edited by Dolph, 23 April 2021 - 20:46.

I got myself the Fanatec DD2, but if I didn't have it, I'd most certainly be interested in the low end DD from them. Its a very good price and I'm running my DD2 at 4nm, so it wouldn't be even that big of a deal. With the DD2 at 8nm I loved, that you had to excercise some force, but I had to hold the wheel strongly in some corners, which was also fine, but sometimes the road would be bumpy in AMS2 (Spa) and the wheel would twitch in my hand and I'd feel pain inside my wrists and they would ache later. Thought - eff that s***, its not worth it, I don't want to screw my hands up because of simracing, so I just tuned it down. For reference, my hands and wrists are on the thin-bone side. 

I got myself the DD2 as well and had the same issue. I like to have it pretty heavy as it gives much more accuracy. In iRacing however I found a solution that involved some ini tweaking (if I recall correctly) and solved it. It dampens the immediate bumps a bit and makes it a much smoother experience overall.

CSL DD ordered. 

Got til October (+ a bit more i suspect) to get a rig built for it. 

For Fanatec guys and gals.

https://www.autoblog...l/?guccounter=1

Since this is sort of general thread, there are driving games on sale at Humble Bundle for your new hardware, Assettos, rFactor 2 and PCars at least worth mentioning.

https://www.humblebu...b_source=navbar

First bit of Fanatec booty arrived yesterday. A Mclaren wheel. Entry level for Fanatec, but feels so premium. Can't wait to get to use it when I get the base. 

Pretty well decided on an entry level SimLab rig (GT1 or something). Seems pretty good value compared to some friends DIY aluminum profile rigs. It's not all bells and whistles but seems like a decent starting poiint. Infinitely adjustable with modular addons. Just deciding if I want the integrated monitor stand or a separate gantry. I'm think the 5Nm DD shouldn't be causing too much flex/wobble(?)

My biggest unknown at the mo is the seat. I really don't want a bucket seat, the shape is rather superfluous, i don't need to be held in. There is no lateral G! They also look like it'd get hot and sweaty. I would like to acheive a more reclined 'formula' style position, or at least have the option to recline a bit, so I'm thinking a road car seat. But nothing too chunky. I'm thinking along the lines of a Sparco R100. It strikes me as expensive, but I don't know if it is just because the seat was a bit of a budget blindspot for me.

Alas, the A/C in my van packed up and I am booked in for a filling at the Dentists next month so some of these purchases may need to slip back into Q4....

 I'm think the 5Nm DD shouldn't be causing too much flex/wobble(?)

My biggest unknown at the mo is the seat. I really don't want a bucket seat, the shape is rather superfluous,

Rig should be rigid with stronger wheels, that shouldn't have any movement.

For seat, go to local junkyard, or browse parts ads. Just notice that all car seats aren't for flat floor, either pick one that is or make some adapters. I fitted V70s seat to two two by fours before installing it to rig.