55 replies to this topic

[jimjimjeroo]

I'm looking at buying an Digital SLR to use when I'm at GPs, I'm not going to spend mega bucks on a camera as I'm a beginner, I've been looking at the Canon 1000D and the Nikon D3000, I know they're both entry level...

What do you guys use and why!?

Cheers

[JasonSw]

I'm looking at buying an Digital SLR to use when I'm at GPs, I'm not going to spend mega bucks on a camera as I'm a beginner, I've been looking at the Canon 1000D and the Nikon D3000, I know they're both entry level...

What do you guys use and why!?

Cheers

Hi Jim,

Although I am not a proper photographer by any means I got a D3000 last year and have had a blast with it!

You can see some of our pics here http://www.flickr.com/photos/5livef1

Easy to use but I reckon I am going to upgrade it soon to a camera that will allow me to film in HD as well.

Cheers,

Jason

[jimjimjeroo]

I have been toying with the idea of a nikon D90 just will have to save abit more money!!

[Suzy]

I use a Nikon D300 and a variety of lenses. The D300 is very useful for getting 7-frames-per-second which comes in very handy. But I'm low-spec compared to the other photographers who often use Nikon D3s and lenses that can see into outer space. I'm not bothered with taking video which is why I didn't get the D300s.

Why Nikon? Because I've always used Nikon and Fuji and it would be too expensive for me to switch to Canon and have to replace all the lenses. I'm familiar with Nikon too. I get high-quality results from it but if I'm honest, the camera is fine but the operator is still getting her head around it. Still I do get some decent pictures so I'm not going to moan.

[merschu]

I will be buying a Nikon D90, so have kept an eye on the latest news from the camera world. So therefore would like you to know that Nikon just a week back has announced a Nikon D3100 (is a upgrade for there D3000). If you want you can check it out too.

http://photofocus.co...0-announcement/

[Bloggsworth]

I had a Canon 10D and always found the results a bit soft compared with "old fashioned" film Canons. Mind you, the sharpest camera I ever had was a Canon Ftb with a Vivitar Series 1 70-210 Zoom lens. Working in Covent Garden I used to buy my lenses at RG Lewis who tested and calibrated everything they sold, and supplied the test graphs to go with them.

Has anybody actually calculated the equivalent in "Megapixels" of 35mm PanF or Kodachrome 25, something in the region of 40 megapixels if my apalling maths is any good.

Edited by Bloggsworth, 23 August 2010 - 19:59.

[jondon]

The D90 would be a better choice as it will give you many more options regarding lens compatability.
If video is not important you will get a good deal on a used D80 leaving you with more money to spend on a really good quality used lens.
Dslr photography can seem to be bit of a minefield initially but a small bit of research will be very rewarding and also very cost effective.

[Bloggsworth]

Oh - and if yoo are thinking about B&W digitally, don't do it "in camera", as the software on some cameras achieves this by only using 1/3 of the receptors - Do it in Photoshop/whatever later.

Edited by Bloggsworth, 23 August 2010 - 21:35.

[OwenC93]

The camera isn't important, try and get one as cheap as you can and spend the money on lenses.

[jondon]

The camera isn't important, try and get one as cheap as you can and spend the money on lenses.

Agree 100%
Also, whether you go with Nikon or Canon it is always worth checking out lenses from third party manufacturers such as Sigma Tokina and Tamron. You can assemble a very good setup for quite reasonable money if you spend a little time browsing reviews on t`internet and asking a few questions...

[OwenC93]

Agree 100%
Also, whether you go with Nikon or Canon it is always worth checking out lenses from third party manufacturers such as Sigma Tokina and Tamron. You can assemble a very good setup for quite reasonable money if you spend a little time browsing reviews on t`internet and asking a few questions...

Yep, I got my DSLR dirt cheap and bought my lenses second hand for about half the price. Still not money to throw away but definitely worth saving the money on it early on and then deciding if your willing to invest £1000 + into a kit and what you need.

You can always sell what you get for a decent price.

[ehagar]

It really doesn't matter if you go Canon or Nikon. Both offer great lens systems. If action photography is what you want to do, be prepared to set your wallet on fire with the lenses.

I am only really familiar with Canon, so I can't comment on detail about Nikon. For Canon, A good starter set of lenses would 70-200mm L (go for the 2.8 if you can, IS really isn't necesssary) and the a 1.4 extender.

I am trying to get the cash together for a 500mm L... To be honest there are few places you really need that kind of length.

[OwenC93]

You don't even have to go Canon or Nikon, Sony and Pentax offer decent systems and can often be a bit cheaper.

[Panktej]

I'm looking at buying an Digital SLR to use when I'm at GPs, I'm not going to spend mega bucks on a camera as I'm a beginner, I've been looking at the Canon 1000D and the Nikon D3000, I know they're both entry level...

What do you guys use and why!?

Cheers

Hello Jim,

I have been doing photography since a while, especially Weddings; but here are some elements you need consider before purchasing a DSLR to click ( F1 cars).

Telephoto Lens: Since you'll be far deep in the crowd, you need to have a telephoto lens i.e. either 70-200mm or 200mm - beyond will be a great lens.
FPS: you need to consider frames per second, buy a camera that offers 6 or more FPS
Aperture: Getting a f/2.8 is always advantageous
ISO: play with your ISO during the grand prix, even in day light condition ISO:800 will help you to get better shutter speed

I have heard people comparing both the brands Nikon and Canon, but what i have experience is Canon are very good for indoor photography as you tend to get right colours; Whereas, Nikon providers warmers colour. On the other hand, in daylight condition Nikon is bettr than Canon (choice is yours). It is important for you to decide which brand to select, as may be you have to be with that brand for all your life.

D3000 is a good model, but what i read so far of d3000 is that it takes 3 seconds to process each frame, and with only 5 frames in the buffer.
I have no inkling about EOS 1000

here are some clicks with D90
http://picasaweb.goo...ankaj.ganpatlal

[Simon Arron]

If you want bang for your buck, don't rule out Pentax...

[Palmero]

D80 is a pretty big downgrade on the newer D90, slightly lower resolution so lower crop factor, and the rear LCD screen is abysmal, very low clarity and zoom scrolling is far too slow. I do own Both, i usually keep my D90 clipped to a Sigma 150-500 which while slightly slow(its still perfectly workable) is fantastic for F1 snaps on a budget(especially if you go Nikon). My D80 alternates between 50mm 1.4 prime and a standard 18-105mm zoom.


My own image, D90 with the Sigma 150-500mm. Very low res because its used in a Java gallery on my site.

The sentiment of "get the cheapest body possible" is only partially accurate, while it is true that a EOS-1D or D3x with a plastic kit lens would be outperformed by cheaper bodies with finer lenses, you also need a body with an internal focus motor(as far as i remember the D40 didn't have this, I'm not sure about the 'D3000') or some lenses simply will not autofocus(for example the absolutely fantastic and indispensable 50mm primes). likewise in lowish light, the more you pay the better autofocus reliability you can expect. increased frame rate the more you pay is also a big deal for sports photography.

I'd strongly recommend the Sigma 150-500mm telephoto lens, Nikon D90 body, and 50mm F1.8 as 3 perfect pieces of kit if your budget can stretch that far, but avoid the D80.

Canon and Nikon are very evenly matched at the moment, at the low end especially. At the pro end Nikon arguably has an advantage for action shooting(D3s), Studio shots(D3x), while Canon has a great all round package in the EOS-1D IV(not to mention a more common sense compromise on resolution).

Edited by Palmero, 23 August 2010 - 22:29.

[Scorg]

I don't do motorsport pics that often, Once at Petite Lemans, once a year at silverstone maybe and the hill climb events up here, but I did get to do the IRC Rally of Scotland last year, which was a bloody challange with the weather. Sodding it down with rain, more rain and then more rain but the setup didnt seem to give a damn, it worked on flawlessly, (pentax make weather sealed bodies and lenses, although officially my K100D is not one of them) although the low light conditions did mean shooting at quite slow shutter speeds it was still managable.

Anyhow, i've been using a Pentax K100D here. (combined with a tamron 18-250 and cosina 100-400) some would say not the most ideal of bodies for action shooting due to its very small buffer. it shoots at 2.8fps for 5 shots, then drops to 1.1fps beyond that. Reason I went with this model at the time was, best price/performance combo at the time in 2007. It's Nikon comparative model was the D50 and it offered IS in the body which the D50 didn't. plus Nikon were discontinuing that for the D40 which, to be frank was very castrated next to the D50 and would have cost more then the Pentax.

But the results i've gotten from it have been rather good.


Alastair Fisher by Avro Vulcan, on Flickr


Roar!!! by Avro Vulcan, on Flickr


IMGP8055 by Avro Vulcan, on Flickr


Adrian Sutil by Avro Vulcan, on Flickr


Penske Porsche at night by Avro Vulcan, on Flickr


Castlehill Reservoir near Glendevon, Perthshire by Avro Vulcan, on Flickr


The pentax advocates have spoken ;)

Edited by Scorg, 23 August 2010 - 22:31.

[Panktej]

I'm looking at buying an Digital SLR to use when I'm at GPs, I'm not going to spend mega bucks on a camera as I'm a beginner, I've been looking at the Canon 1000D and the Nikon D3000, I know they're both entry level...

What do you guys use and why!?

Cheers

Sorry, i forgot to add into my previous post. First thing for you will be learn the camera settings. No matter what model you buy, you need to get familiarize with the settings or else you wont get pictures as you desire..

Cheers..

[jondon]

Jimjimjeroo, welcome to the "minefield" i mentioned earlier.... lol!
I have a feeling this thread will continue for quite some time...

[Scorg]

Jimjimjeroo, welcome to the "minefield" i mentioned earlier.... lol!
I have a feeling this thread will continue for quite some time...

Oh it will, should see it in the paddock club when it comes to cameras, all out war ;)

In general it really does come down to what the camera will be used for mostly, all slr's are good in the end, but some are better at action like the nikons and canons, but as has been said, never rule out Pentax and Sony as options as they make some lovely cameras too.

[Simon Arron]

As others have implied, lens quality tends to matter more than platform. As a Pentax devotee, I would recommend the Tamron 18-250 (18-270 in Canon and Nikon mounts) for almost everything, plus...



Tamron 90mm 2.8 for portraits.




Sigma 10-20mm for wide-angle nonsense.




And, finally, Sigma 100-300mm f4 for anything that moves. These were all second-hand purchases and none is regretted.

[Jimisgod]

I'm looking at buying an Digital SLR to use when I'm at GPs, I'm not going to spend mega bucks on a camera as I'm a beginner, I've been looking at the Canon 1000D and the Nikon D3000, I know they're both entry level...

What do you guys use and why!?

Cheers

If you can, I'd jump to the next level of camera, the 500D or 550D for Canon or the D5000 for Nikon. A D90 is about as expensive as it sounds you could go, however, remember the money is best spent on the lense you place on the front, for sports photography I have been recommended a 70-200mm lens (both Canon and Nikkor have one) and it's best to have an aperture of f/2.8 as that gives you more lee-way with less light. I have a Canon but to be honest the Nikon system impresses me more.

[Panktej]

As others have implied, lens quality tends to matter more than platform. As a Pentax devotee, I would recommend the Tamron 18-250 (18-270 in Canon and Nikon mounts) for almost everything, plus...



Tamron 90mm 2.8 for portraits.




Sigma 10-20mm for wide-angle nonsense.




And, finally, Sigma 100-300mm f4 for anything that moves. These were all second-hand purchases and none is regretted.

after 135mm the tamron goes soft, and the lens auto focus is not quick. i'd certainly not recommend tamron 18-250mm.

[woftam]

The Canon EOS 7D is another great camera to consider.
8 FPS & a good auto focus system.

Edited by woftam, 24 August 2010 - 11:42.

[Panktej]

Jim,

as you are new to the DSLR market, i'd suggest you to purchase D3000 or D5000 with either 18-105mm VR or 18-200mm VR. on other hand, you can go for mix of 18-55mm & 55-200mm VR, but mind you changing lens will be a hassel.

This is the best way to kick off your interest in DSLR photography. first thing for you will be learn a basic DSLR, play with settings, and once you are confident enough then upgrade it. Otherwise, buying equipment worth around 1k is useless..

hope this helps to form a decision.

cheerios..

[tifosiMac]

You won't go far wrong with the Canon 1000D. Its a great entry level camera, although the Nikon D3000 is designed for the rank amateur and explains in depth through its menu's. I still prefer the 1000D and with a Sigma 70-300mm lens it works well. I took this picture of Vettel at Silverstone last season with a 1000D.



I hope you enjoy your purchase..

Edited by tifosiMac, 24 August 2010 - 11:45.

[Panktej]

You won't go far wrong with the Canon 1000D. Its a great entry level camera, although the Nikon D3000 is designed for the rank amateur and explains in depth through its menu's. I still prefer the 1000D and with a Sigma 70-300mm lens it works well. I took this picture of Vettel at Silverstone last season with a 1000D.



I hope you enjoy your purchase..

But it is equally important to have Optical Stabiliser for telephoto lenses. you can get sigma 70-300 for less than 150£, but they are bit useless. I'd suggest to buy those lens with either VR(Nikon), IS (Canon), OS (Sigma) or VC (Tamron).

[woftam]

But it is equally important to have Optical Stabiliser for telephoto lenses. you can get sigma 70-300 for less than 150£, but they are bit useless. I'd suggest to buy those lens with either VR(Nikon), IS (Canon), OS (Sigma) or VC (Tamron).

Why do you need image stabilizer for motorsport? IS adds a lot of cost to the lenses.
Use a monopod.

Edited by woftam, 24 August 2010 - 12:13.

[Panktej]

Why do you need image stabilizer for motorsport? IS adds a lot of cost to the lenses.
Use a monopod.

F1 cars are not a steady object, and if you want a 100% crop result you need to have IS

[tifosiMac]

Or use a monopod as Image Stabilizer (IS) only works for up and down motions to reduce camera shake.;)
My 300mm lens does not have (IS) and its not been a problem. Panning is also easier with a monpod in my experience.

EDIT: Sorry just seen the post above

Edited by tifosiMac, 24 August 2010 - 13:16.

[tifosiMac]

But it is equally important to have Optical Stabiliser for telephoto lenses. you can get sigma 70-300 for less than 150£, but they are bit useless. I'd suggest to buy those lens with either VR(Nikon), IS (Canon), OS (Sigma) or VC (Tamron).

I wouldn't say they are useless as such. My Lens is a 70-300mm Sigma APO and cost me only £180 new. It worked fine, and it sounds like the OP is on a budget seeing as they are looking at entry level camera's. A 300mm lens with (OS, VR, IS) is getting on the expensive side, £500 plus. It might not be an option for the OP.

[OwenC93]

Sony and Pentax have IS built in camera. So that way any lens you buy is stabilised.

[Panktej]

I wouldn't say they are useless as such. My Lens is a 70-300mm Sigma APO and cost me only £180 new. It worked fine, and it sounds like the OP is on a budget seeing as they are looking at entry level camera's. A 300mm lens with (OS, VR, IS) is getting on the expensive side, £500 plus. It might not be an option for the OP.

I bought the same lens for 125£ from Comet, and eventually, i had to return it because the focusing motor was creating way too much sound, and it stopped functioning after 2 days. If thats the case then you can get Nikon 70-300 (without VR) for 99£. The other option could be getting a second hand lens or renting a good lens for 3 days. Nikon 70-300VR is for around 350£.

at the end of the day, all comes to budget. How much are you ready to spend. 'The more you spend (on lenses), better the quality you get".

[Scorg]

When it comes to motorsport photography, it is best to turn IS off, Pentax even state in the manual you will receive more failed shots on panning then you will good ones if you leave it enabled.
And in the Paddock Club, someone has done IS checks with a lens based stabilisation and came to the same conclusions. Simon can maybe update on if he uses IS on his K-7 or not, but I disable it on my K100D when needing to do motorsport pics.

As a side note, the Entry level model from Pentax is the K-x which does compete more with the D5000 from Nikon although it is priced at under £400

Olympus still make dslr's such as the E420 and E450 and go for a right bargain, but as Olympus is heading down the micro mirrorless camera route now, I couldn't say how much support the company is giving to regular slr's now.

Edited by Scorg, 24 August 2010 - 14:56.

[Buttoneer]

One quick point to make for Sony is that you can use a lot of the older Minolta glass on today's new bodies, which means some good eBay bargains. In particular the Minolta 70-210 F4 is a real winner and usually picked up for around £120. Solid build and awesome results at f8. A few white lenses will go through eBay too but they will still cost a pretty penny.

I was Minolta and graduated to Sony with the system and overall I'm still a very happy user, now with an A900 and some dazzling full-frame 25mp detail.

edit; agree with Scorg about panning and anti-shake systems. Much more important to practice practice practice getting the pan technique right. Monopod essential (I use a Trek-Tek Trekpod for flexibility as it will do a sort-of tripod thing.

[Simon Arron]

Simon can maybe update whether he uses IS on his K7...

I used to, because I have an aversion to instruction manuals, but for the past eight months or so I have switched it off whenever racing cars are in the vicinity. Unfortunately, this means I often forget to re-engage it when stalking wildlife etc...

[jondon]

For me, the best description of VR/IS/OS (take your pick) is that it compensates for camera shake during longer exposures. It can be a good help if you have forgotten your tripod.
What it cannot do is freeze the action of a moving object, and if left switched on during panning it will actually try to compensate for your movements resulting in blurred shots.

edit: description here link

Edited by jondon, 24 August 2010 - 21:09.

[Scorg]

after 135mm the tamron goes soft, and the lens auto focus is not quick. i'd certainly not recommend tamron 18-250mm.

I still would recommend the tamron 18-250, and the tiger shot from my lot was taken with that lens full reach at 250mm and it is still a very sharp image.
The focus is on the slow side on that lens, but then Sigma make an OSM based version of an 18-250 with much faster focusing if that is the concern, but the tamron is noted for giving the better picture.
But in the end, everyones millage will vary and as things go, that lens is a good all rounder and regarded so by the photographic media.

For me, the best description of VR/IS/OS (take your pick) is that it compensates for camera shake during longer exposures. It can be a good help if you have forgotten your tripod.
What it cannot do is freeze the action of a moving object, and if left switched on during panning it will actually try to compensate for your movements resulting in blurred shots.

edit: description here link

That's it exactly, that is what Pentax give as the reason why it fails.

Edited by Scorg, 24 August 2010 - 21:48.

[tifosiMac]

I bought the same lens for 125£ from Comet, and eventually, i had to return it because the focusing motor was creating way too much sound, and it stopped functioning after 2 days.

I think the lens you had was this one:

http://www.warehouse...on-fit/p1008573

Mine is this one and its the APO version:

http://www.warehouse...on-fit/p1008569

My lens is the slightly more expensive one, and yes the motor is still fairly loud. The noise won't be a problem with motorsport, but get a shot of wildlife can be tricky which a lens thats determined to scare everything away. As you say it all depends on the budget..

[uffen]

According to my literature the Nikon VR system recognizes panning and adjusts accordingly. So, it can still be used.

[tifosiMac]

One quick point to make for Sony is that you can use a lot of the older Minolta glass on today's new bodies, which means some good eBay bargains. In particular the Minolta 70-210 F4 is a real winner and usually picked up for around £120. Solid build and awesome results at f8. A few white lenses will go through eBay too but they will still cost a pretty penny.

Old glass is great but using them for motorsport or fast moving objects means you have to be pretty good at manually focussing without AF. This is something I am not so hot on. If you can do it, then thats a great alternative.

[OwenC93]

Old glass is great but using them for motorsport or fast moving objects means you have to be pretty good at manually focussing without AF. This is something I am not so hot on. If you can do it, then thats a great alternative.

They have auto focus.

[tifosiMac]

They have auto focus.

In that case thats great for Sony users. Some old Canon Lenses have AF but it doesn't work with modern digital SLR's, which is annoying.

[David Lightman]

Sigma quality control is terrible, try and avoid them if you can.

[tifosiMac]

Sigma quality control is terrible, try and avoid them if you can.

How do you mean?

[Panktej]

Has anyone got any sample pictures of Sigma 24-70mm IF DC EF, at low shutter speed (preferably, night shots)

[Scorg]

Sigma quality control is terrible, try and avoid them if you can.

Now is this based upon their low end or high end equipment(which happen to have very good standings with reviewers)?

[Panktej]

Sigma quality control is terrible, try and avoid them if you can.

If you budget is tight, then i'd rate Sigma as the best option

[jimjimjeroo]

So do you guys recommend against using VR lenses?

[OwenC93]

So do you guys recommend against using VR lenses?

For motorsport it's not really necessary(and can work against you). Some lenses have IS that disable when panning, and I know Sony disable the horizontal IS in body when panning but keeps the vertical on.

IS on a telephoto is great for birdwatching, but otherwise it's not so useful.

(IS=Image Stabilisation)

Edited by OwenC93, 25 August 2010 - 15:59.