Happy to have a go at it until Fat Boy comes along but might be an idea to have a gander at the onboards first and see if anything obvious ...
Cool...notoriety.
Toe settings: I've never once seen a toe setting affect straight line speed in anything. Logically, you would say it has to, but I've never been able to see it in data, and at times I've ran some fairly hefty toe settings. I know the FFord and Spec racer crowd obsesses about running a zero setting, but I would argue that it's more an issue of paddock group think than actual data. Run whatever makes the car go the fastest around the track. If that happens to be zero, then fine. If that happens to be a few mm in or out, then fine. Same goes for camber.
Run everything your engine builder recommends. Don't run an engine from 'X' builder with the exhaust from 'Y' just because you happen to have that exhaust sitting around. Run every damned thing he tells you to run and have him come to the track with you to tune it, even if just for a day. Be your engine builder's best customer. If you don't trust him to spec out all your parts or tune your engine, then look for a different builder.
Top speed is overwhelmingly influenced by aero drag. Are you running the same car as your competition? If you're running a car with a different body, then that may be it right there. Regardless if the body 'looks' slick or not, it may be a parachute. On the flip side, if you can't even stay in a draft, then you can discount the effect of the bodywork, because a draft will make a bigger difference to drag than a body ever could.
Is the car at minimum weight? It matters. When you finish qualifying, you should be as close to minimum as you possibly can be. At my last race we rolled across the scales after qual. They were plugging in the numbers for the driver and car weight into a computer. As one official called out the numbers the other said, "Jesus!...you're only over by 1 pound." The other one says, "Ya, those guys don't F around." If you're carrying around an extra 25 pounds on the car and an extra 5 gallons of fuel, it is a measureable acceleration difference.
"I'm way faster into the corner, but they're killing me on the way out." Then don't be faster than your competition in places that don't count. It's a FFord. They respond well to rolling speed and early full throttle. Notice I didn't say cracking the throttle early. Many times a guy will crack the throttle early, but take forever to get to full throttle. A FFord does not have wheelspin issues. You should be able to apply throttle in an almost digital manner. Where you reach full throttle is the important variable, not where you initiate it. To make a pass, you must be better on corner exit. Sacrifice the entry speed, but get the car turned early and make damned sure that you get to full throttle first and are catching the car ahead of you as you unwind the steering wheel and reach track out.
Now to your real question, rake. The simple fact is, I don't know. I know that rake is really powerful balance tuning tool on those cars, but as to it's effect on drag, I really have no way of saying. I would guess that within the range that most people run, it's probably a pretty small variable. It's not going to influence downforce or frontal area too significantly, so it's probably not going to influence drag, but that's not based off of any hard data, just instinct.
Hope this helps.