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Looking for input on buying a wheel


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#1 babbel

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Posted 20 January 2021 - 11:50

I’ve been thinking about buying a wheel for a while but I can’t really decide on what I want so I always postpone it... I am looking for input on what to buy!

 

It has to work on the PS4/5 and pc and I found the Logitech g923, does anyone have this one?



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#2 JoshKing

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Posted 20 January 2021 - 13:54

I’ve been thinking about buying a wheel for a while but I can’t really decide on what I want so I always postpone it... I am looking for input on what to buy!

 

It has to work on the PS4/5 and pc and I found the Logitech g923, does anyone have this one?

 

I don't have a G923, but I have a last-gen G920, which is just the Xbox version of the G29.

 

I'm not sure if you're aware, but the G29 is also compatible with both consoles. The G29 is pretty much the same minus some aesthetical changes and is cheaper. The Trueforce force feedback system on the G923 seems like a gimmick imo, plus it's only compatible with a few games anyways. Here in the UK you can save £100-£150 by going for the G29 over the G923. 

 

I love my G920, and I've gotten well over 1000 hours of use over the past couple of years with no problems, so I personally would recommend the G29. I'd still take a look at some reviews on websites and YouTube etc. but I hope this helps.

 

Feel free to ask anymore questions if you have any.

 

Josh



#3 FordPrefect

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 16:03

Hello, here are my 2 cents on the topic

 

For about the last 6 years I've been using Thrustmaster (yes I know) wheels, on a PS4.

First the 150 and now the T300RS. They have proven to be real workhorses for me.

To be honest the whole setup I have is dedicated to the F1 2020 (and earlier) game so I really can't comment on using it with other software.

 

As with a lot of other wheels the nice thing abot the T300RS is the ability to swap out the round wheel, and late last year I did just that.

 

I went with a new wheel from Acelith Design in Italy.

 

My thoughts:

 

Ordering was easy, feedback from them was very helpful, delivery was painless (I live in Canada west of Toronto)

 

Installation of the new wheel took all of about 8 minutes, all the existing buttons fit the new wheel like a glove.

 

Force feedback now seems less heavy handed and more accurate, I thought with the reduced weight of the wheel that wouldn't be the case but I was wrong.

 

Curves, especially hairpins seems a lot more natural, I know that may not make sense but thats how it feels to me. Zandvoort is now an absolute joy to drive.

 

This wheel has what they call a soft touch plastic grips, no idea how that works but it does.

 

I really wish everyone lived nearby and there was no Covid, I'd love to let everyone have a hands on experience.

 

Looking for a new wheel can be quite exciting, I wish you all the best in your quest. Get what works for you, it's your money.

 

Ford

 

Wheel.jpg



#4 Peat

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Posted 24 January 2021 - 07:01

Long term G29 user. G25 before that. 

Absolutely fine. I would consider myself a heavy user, but can't justify the jump up in cost for DD or the mid level Fanatecs. 

I will be upgrading my pedals this year, but the stock ones are perfectly serviceable. 



#5 Myrvold

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Posted 25 January 2021 - 20:22

Logitech-guy here as well. DFGT -> G27 and G29 after my G27 gave up halfway through 2020.

 

I consider myself a fairly serious simracer, in the sense that I have been staff at RaceDepartment since 2012, and hosts both rF2 events and a rally championship there. I have tried DD-wheel, and while it is better. I really can't justify the costs when a Logitech wheel works more than good enough! :)

I did keep my G27 shifter and bought a bodnar cable for it though, so I have the shifter as a "button box" as well.



#6 noikeee

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Posted 25 January 2021 - 20:37

My DFGT is going on 10 years and still strong. Admittedly, it had holidays of a few years before getting back to being used thanks to Covid...

One day, I wanna have Fanatec gear. But by that time hopefully life is busy enough that I won't have time to use it. 😝

#7 babbel

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Posted 26 January 2021 - 07:21

Thanks for the input! It’s looking likely I’ll get the g920/923 at some point  :D



#8 Peat

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Posted 26 January 2021 - 08:36

One thing with the logitech pedals, try and keep the area they're in clean and free of dust. If you have pets, consider covering them when not in use. The potentiometers inside them seem to have a their own gravitational pull for hair and dust which makes the input trace a bit wobbly. 

 

I've become a dab hand at servicing them over the years (disassemble, blow out with air/IPA, reassemble) but it's a bit of a faff. 

Speaking of which, during the final stages of the iRacing Daytona 24 at the weekend and a whisky to the better, I finally pressed go on some Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals.  :clap:



#9 PhilArny80

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Posted 27 January 2021 - 16:53

I recently got a Logitech G920 and love it.

 

I play mostly F1/GT games (F12020/ACC etc) so I purchased a wheel mod from MVH Studios as below. It took about a month to come and was really easy to install but it is excellent and much better to me than the stock wheel.

 

https://mvhstudios.c...itech-g920-xbox



#10 Ross Stonefeld

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Posted 27 January 2021 - 22:10

My DFGT is going on 10 years and still strong. Admittedly, it had holidays of a few years before getting back to being used thanks to Covid...

One day, I wanna have Fanatec gear. But by that time hopefully life is busy enough that I won't have time to use it.

 

How insanely expensive would shipping a wheel and pedals to Portugal from Wisconsin be? 



#11 noikeee

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Posted 28 January 2021 - 10:13

How insanely expensive would shipping a wheel and pedals to Portugal from Wisconsin be? 

 

Bizarrely, I've got family in Wisconsin (really) and they've sent us stuff, but never anything as heavy as simracing gear  :p

 

A quick search tells me it's something like 12 dollars per pound which is crazy. I appreciate the good intentions man but you're better off selling the gear to someone in the US.  :)



#12 Nemo1965

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 10:48

Perhaps a revival of this thread or a last stutter towards oblivion: yesterday evening I ordered a Logitech G29 with an extra separate shifter. Tonight I already thought about canceling. New equipment always make me very, very nervous.

 

But I saw some reviews about it, and it seems very sturdy, very good (in this price range) in force-feedback... And I have never had a wheel that really gave feedback of the physics of the car, so if that would really work... I race a lot online with F1 2014 with a gamepad and I will use the wheel with rFactor with cars that have a manual stick simulation and clutch. Three pedals, you see... 


Edited by Nemo1965, 11 February 2021 - 11:05.


#13 noikeee

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 11:26

Perhaps a revival of this thread or a last stutter towards oblivion: yesterday evening I ordered a Logitech G29 with an extra separate shifter. Tonight I already thought about canceling. New equipment always make me very, very nervous.

 

But I saw some reviews about it, and it seems very sturdy, very good (in this price range) in force-feedback... And I have never had a wheel that really gave feedback of the physics of the car, so if that would really work... I race a lot online with F1 2014 with a gamepad and I will use the wheel with rFactor with cars that have a manual stick simulation and clutch. Three pedals, you see... 

 

You should be absolutely fine. It's the "base" wheel the vast majority of simracers use, or start with. G29, G27, G25, G920, G923, it's all basically the same thing. It's reliable and pretty much every driving game released on the last 15 years will instantly recognise it and be optimized for it.

 

I would massively recommend switching from the gamepad to the wheel in the F1 game as well. You might be slower at the beginning though. Takes a LOT of mental readjustment to driving with a wheel if you're used to gamepads/keyboards/mouses/joysticks/telepathy.



#14 Nemo1965

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 19:09

You should be absolutely fine. It's the "base" wheel the vast majority of simracers use, or start with. G29, G27, G25, G920, G923, it's all basically the same thing. It's reliable and pretty much every driving game released on the last 15 years will instantly recognise it and be optimized for it.

 

I would massively recommend switching from the gamepad to the wheel in the F1 game as well. You might be slower at the beginning though. Takes a LOT of mental readjustment to driving with a wheel if you're used to gamepads/keyboards/mouses/joysticks/telepathy.

 

Thanks for the feedback, Noikee (no pun intended). And the encouragement.... I don't think I am going to use the wheel for my evening long binges online, because I run regularly about two and half hours of short races between 5 and 15 laps in the evening... and then I go to bed. I used to have a wheel, without real force feedback (just force back!) and I was amazed how tired I got after just ten minutes of playing.

 

With the gamepad I often run 100 percent length races at the highest AI-level I can get to. My brother, who sometimes joins me in online races, lasts two races of five laps - and then he's knackered! Not surprising: I have been playing racing games since I was 16 and know all the F1-tracks inside out and then some. Much less tiring if you don't have to think: 'Oh ****, where is this corner going to lead to?'

 

So my idea will be to run rFactor and especially non-open wheel cars with the wheel and shifter and mostly the gamepad with 'easier' games as F1 2014 or in the future modern iterations. I have a hidden motive as well to do more realistic games with the wheel...

 

Regarding the OP: in my short bout of research I've found that Logitech are the most used, most valued wheel for the regular gamer, Fanatec is the more expensive choice and Thrustmaster is the value for price candidate. Would that be a fair assessment?


Edited by Nemo1965, 11 February 2021 - 19:10.


#15 noikeee

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 19:27

Yeah Logitech is the "cheap" option, Fanatec the "proper" option, and Thrustmaster a worthy option somewhere in between.

I don't know how the hell did we end up in a place where wheels like the Logitech G29 at the 250€ or thereabouts price range, how is that considered "cheap"!! But that's where we are.

#16 Hati

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 20:31

Fanatec the "proper" option,

Fanatec is the final step before the proper option. (They do have DD wheels, which is the proper option so they may be the actual final step.)



#17 noikeee

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Posted 12 February 2021 - 09:58

Fanatec is the final step before the proper option. (They do have DD wheels, which is the proper option so they may be the actual final step.)

Well yeah.. you can spend as much as you like on hardware, and go into the thousands of dollars, there's no ceiling  :D



#18 Dmitriy_Guller

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Posted 16 February 2021 - 19:56

Logitech may be the cheap option, but it's a surprisingly robust option.  For something made of plastic they're remarkable.  I've had my G27 for probably 12 years by now, and it's still going strong.



#19 Nemo1965

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Posted 27 February 2021 - 18:49

My Logitech seems also very strong... I admire how they designed the clamps: it are screws you first have to turn tight, then you press them in a slot, like a key.

 

But anyways, that is not why I wanted to post. In the thread about Dirt 2, I almost got derailed and derailed the thread almost, because of my astonishment about what some people here (and everywhere in the world!) use as rotation for their wheel. 900 degrees? For Formula 1-games?

 

 

I got DR2 recently and have mixed feelings about it

 

First time I went into it, after spending 20 minutes fixing my force feedback, it felt awesome with the Mitsubishi Lancer Group A. Just really a ton of fun.

 

Then I started a career with the historic cars and first the ****ing thing doesn't automatically set the steering wheel degrees of rotation per car, I have to constantly set it car by car outside of the game, then it just feels mushy undetailed and unresponsive with the historic car (it's a Datsun I think, or the Lancia Fulvia). Disappointing after the first "woah this is actually really good" moment.

 

Set the rotation to 540 degrees in your wheel driver and calibrate it like that inside the game, every car will be fine like that. Codemasters still doesn't want to acknowledge that every wheel has 900+ degrees rotation now above entry level.

 

Usually this is pretty simple and very quick to check if it's working well or not. If you turn your wheel 90º left, the wheel shown in game should also turn exactly 90º left. Turn it 180º it should turn 180º (upside down). Etc.

 

In some particular circumstances, some people will want it to not match exactly how it is in-game, which won't be realistic, but if you enjoy for example a slightly pointier car with less steering precision, and the lack of realism doesn't bother you, that's fine.

 

I wonder if you have something set wildly wrong to want much lower rotation. Maybe you have too strong force feedback and are struggling to turn in? And therefore are trying to compensate by getting the car to shoot into the corner with only the tiniest bit of steering. Personally I like force feedback quite light, I just want the information to be there to gently tell me what the car is doing, and give me just a little resistance into the corner, but I want it to be light enough so I can make sharp steering without too much effort.

 

You are all driving me mad! I will make a short film about my wheel and rotation because I think there is some huge misunderstanding about what 320 degrees of rotation mean. 

 

News follows...

:drunk:

 

 

I've tested my wheel (with H-stick shift and clutch pedal) extensively for two weeks and read A LOT of posts of fellow-confused gamers on several sites. Some remarks:

 

1. First: a mistake I made was that I thought that the return-spring range (so when it starts rewinding itself to the center) and the maximum rotation were one and the same. Obviously: they are not. At the end of the rotation set, the wheel CAN'T turn further, but if you set the rotation to 900 degrees, the wheel will turn and return to its center, three times if necessary. So sometimes it does not matter if you set the wheel with your drive-software to 900 degrees... However...

 

2. The in-wheel turn of Codemasters F1-games can not be set correctly. I've always wondered how it was possible to play these games so nicely straight out of the box, even with a gamepad on the standard settings. If you play iRacing or Rfactor with a gamepad, you first have to fiddle a lot with the settings to even get the car driving on the straights. Not with the F1 20xx games. Even with ALL the aids of, you can drive perfectly and comfortable around with any game-controller... even with the keyboard (not advisable!)

 

My guess: Codemasters have put a very smart (probably extensively tested) speed-sensitivity code IN the game. With that I mean: a plugin or .dll that reduces and enhances turning at the appropriate moments. Ask yourself this: how many times does it happen that if you turn in a slow corn, in any F1 20xx game, the car understeers? Really? Or, reversely: that you steer in an ultra-corner the car oversteers?

 

Test it for yourself. Go to the Melbourne-track. Drive out of the pits and find a spot to park your car. Then, with the driver-software of your wheel, synchronise the movement of your wheel on your play-seat (or desk, in my case) and the in-game wheel. Then drive a lap. Pay attention when you take corner 5, almost flat-out. You will find that your hands on your wheel are in almost full lock. The wheel in the car is NEVER turned more than 90 degrees. 

 

3. What really bothers me about the Codemaster game and controllers, is that you can't manually save a certain controller setting and give it a specific name. When I had not yet installed the Logitech own software-hub (Github), the game recognised the controller (not exactly, but it saw it was a Logitech, so hey!). If you could save a certain setting, you can find it back in the folder 'Actionmap' and for example edit some of the camera-standpoints. However, since I installed the driver-software of my wheel, the game only refers to my setting as 'custom'.

 

What seems to work well is set my software for the wheel itself (outside of the game) on 270 degrees, and then fiddle around with saturation, linearity and such. In rFactor, I got the right settings more and less nailed. But for F1 2014, for example, my settings are TOTALLY different from what I read in most recommendations. And I just ignore the in game steering wheel as irrelevant eye-candy.



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#20 noikeee

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Posted 27 February 2021 - 18:57

Yeah maybe there's something with Codemasters games, on other "normal" sims that aren't suited for the mass market of users with controllers it's really quite simple. Set max degrees outside the game (in Logitech software). In-game it will recognise the wheel and set the degrees correctly. Reduce force feedback in-game until its comfortable. Done. That's how I do rf2, AC, ACC, no issues.

I don't recall having problems with F1 2020 though, it's just Dirt Rally 2 that's annoying. Maybe earlier F1 games were annoying as well.

Obviously I don't use the full 900 degrees of rotation with F1 cars. It's more like 270 or 360. But it *should* be the game's job to limit it to the car's appropriate range of rotation, not the Logitech software's job. And it should be the game's job to accurately reproduce the rotation I'm doing in my wheel, in the in-game rendered wheel.

Edited by noikeee, 27 February 2021 - 19:01.


#21 Nemo1965

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Posted 28 February 2021 - 09:18

Yeah maybe there's something with Codemasters games, on other "normal" sims that aren't suited for the mass market of users with controllers it's really quite simple. Set max degrees outside the game (in Logitech software). In-game it will recognise the wheel and set the degrees correctly. Reduce force feedback in-game until its comfortable. Done. That's how I do rf2, AC, ACC, no issues.

I don't recall having problems with F1 2020 though, it's just Dirt Rally 2 that's annoying. Maybe earlier F1 games were annoying as well.

Obviously I don't use the full 900 degrees of rotation with F1 cars. It's more like 270 or 360. But it *should* be the game's job to limit it to the car's appropriate range of rotation, not the Logitech software's job. And it should be the game's job to accurately reproduce the rotation I'm doing in my wheel, in the in-game rendered wheel.

 

Well, shoulda, coulda, woulda. If I set the degrees to 900 rotation I just steer off the track in Codemasters Universe. 270 degrees is fine in the F1-games of that developer, I have to ignore the steering wheel in game. In rFactor, however, I've got the wheel spot on, whatever mod I use... if I set the rotation of the Logitech to the same rotation of the config files of rFactor...

 

Now if I only get the stick shift to work in GP Legends and Richard Burns-rally...