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Prancing peculiarities...


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#1 Doug Nye

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Posted 08 March 2025 - 08:46

In Italy this past week, lunch scene at Ferrari's Cavallino restaurant just across the Formigine road from the factory's iconic main gate was dominated (for me) by this display piece:

 

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It's a replica of Ing. Lampredi's celebrated screw-up which contributed to him losing his job - the 2.5-litre Ferrari 252 experimental twin-cylinder engine. 

 

Talking of prancing peculiarities, I stayed with a friend at Salo on Lake Garda - that's right, ever so handy for Maranello, only 90 miles away - and just north of Salo on the west shore of the lake, above Gardone Riviera, is Il Vittoriale degli Italiani, the former home of Italy's famous poet (and, arguably, prat) Gabriele d'Annunzio.  

 

This grossly narcissistic, serial-philandering, self-promoting, nationalistic writer, army officer, orator, politician (and car enthusiast)'s house stands in parkland grounds which climb the steep mountainside. The grounds are jam-packed with structures, sculptures and artefacts celebrating d'Annunzio himself and 'Victories of the Italians'.

 

It's cheerfully, unashamedly, totally potty and I hugely recommend a visit.  

 

D'Annunzio was very influential in Italy's entry into World War 1 on the Triple Alliance's side v. Kaiser Bill and the Austrians. He then starred in two tremendous publicity stunts in 1918, first participating in a February MTB raid on Bakar harbour (in Croatia) aboard MAS 96 (see below) and then in August passengering in one of nine biplanes which dropped leaflets over Vienna during a six-hour 'raid'.

 

Of greater substance, in 1919 he led 189 grenadiers in occupying Fiume when the Armistice conference looked likely to cede it.  Thousands of other Italian troops followed, d'Annunzio declared Fiume's independence with himself as its 'Duce', and in 1920 declared war on Italy!  He lost after a naval bombardment - and retired to perfumed luxury at Lake Garda.  But his oratory and self-promoted celebrity deeply influenced Mussolini and his Fascists and from 1924 the State indulged him immensely - settling his debts (he regarded himself as being above paying anyone) and showering him with gifts - effectively to keep him quiet, out of politics, and away from the capital, Rome.  

 

Mussolini's Fascists had possibly shown interest in depriving d'Annunzio of more than merely a public platform when, in 1922 - just before their 'March on Rome' - he either slipped or was pushed out of  window and quite badly hurt.

 

Musso apparently said 'if troubled by a bad tooth you either have it taken out, or filled with gold'.  The latter solution to keeping d'Annunzio on-side included giving him half the Italian Navy cruiser 'Puglia', the MTB, MAS 96, ex-Bakar raid, and his flight over Vienna SIVA biplane - all at Vittoriale to be wondered at today.  He was described as the inventor of 'The Politics of Spectacle', and died in 1938, aged 74.  Topping the hillside at Vittoriale is his lavish mausoleum. Prancing still...

 

Below: the forepart of the protected cruiser 'Puglia' was hauled some 250 feet up the hillside above Lake Garda and installed here, facing towards the Adriatic and d'Annunzio's 'theatre' of war...and self-promotion.

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Rather splendid fowling piece - 5.9-inch on 'Puglia's foredeck.  It's said that d'Annunzio was not above loosing off a shot occasionally across the Lake.  Not sure I believe that - but it's a lovely Mary Poppins-esque image.

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MAS 96 in its weatherproof shelter, even higher up the mountainside...  MAS = motoscafo antisommergibile or " anti-submarine motorboat". The initials were said by d'Annunzio to stand equally for 'Memento Audere Semper' - "Always Remember to Dare".

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Below: One of MAS 96's two 500hp 6-cylinder engines - I think by Isotta-Fraschini?

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Below: The SIVA biplane in which d'Annunzio flew as passenger, dumping yah-boo-sucks leaflets over the Austrian capital of Vienna...

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Photos Copyright: GPL

 

When it comes to "Always remember to dare" I strongly feel that Enzo Ferrari lived by much the same motto, but his self-promotion was - for me - far more admirable than d'Annunzio's - real competition, not grandstanding for grandstanding's sake, building a brand, building a record and building a company providing a living for his local people.  Not much prancing there - apart from that horse.

 

DCN

 

PS - As we drove through Gardone on the lakeside my host pointed out neighbouring monastery and convent on the left.  Nuvolari's sister was a nun here, and in his infirmity postwar he apparently spent numerous weeks there, breathing the clean lakeside air.  But tragically, into the early 1980s it seems that it was on this same stretch of road that his widow - the admirably patient, long suffering Carolina Nuvolari - met her end, knocked down on a pedestrian crossing ... by a carelessly-driven ... Alfa Romeo...


Edited by Doug Nye, 09 March 2025 - 08:43.


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#2 Vitesse2

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Posted 08 March 2025 - 10:17

D'Annunzio was indeed bonkers, but I do have him to thank for my avatar, which he presented to Nuvolari as a token of his esteem. :) The tortoise on which it is modelled was d'Annunzio's pet, which apparently met its end after consuming a surfeit of tuberoses. D'Annunzio had it recreated in bronze and it sits on the dining table in his house, supposedly as a warning against gluttony.

 

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https://www.rocaille.it/il-vittoriale/ The rooms look as overwhelming and eclectic as Sir John Soane's Museum!

 

There is a fairly recent - multi-award-winning - biography of him in English: 'The Pike: Gabriele d’Annunzio, Poet, Seducer and Preacher of War' by Lucy Hughes-Hallett.

 



#3 Doug Nye

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Posted 08 March 2025 - 13:49

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As a surprise, in the house at Il Vittoriali one finds amongst its often bizarre content the shattered steering wheel from Sir Henry Segrave's 98.7mph Water World Speed Record-setting boat Miss England II, after his fatal crash in her during another run at Lake Windermere in June 1930.  She was repaired and returned to service in 1931, driven by Kaye Don.  He promptly raised the WWSR to 110.223mph that July, at Lake Garda.  

 

It was during that trip, presumably, that - as a gesture of respect - our fallen hero's broken wheel was presented to Italy's living hero... Certainly there are reports of d'Annunzio paying a gracious visit to the British team, sailing up in MAS 96 - no less - which was then still very much afloat and active around the Lake.  One report describes how The Poet bade farewell to Don and his people, had the MAS draw clear - and then fire a gun salute in tribute.  He might have been full of hot air...but he really did display some theatrical style.

 

DCN


Edited by Doug Nye, 09 March 2025 - 08:47.


#4 Parkesi

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Posted 08 March 2025 - 14:25

Doug, once again: 100% agreed. I`ve been there twice - what a location, recommended.

The cruiser within the green park, on top of the Lago di Garda - Fellini at his best (E la nave va).

But if some TNF folks plan to go there make sure NOT to be there 12.03. - its Gabriele D`Annunzio`s birthday.

Next to his tomb on top of the hill some old & strange "Mussolini freaks" celebrate their yearly gathering.

Rather spooky in the 21st century.

On a lighter note: nearby there used to be the "Circuito del Garda" with start/finish in Salò/Via Brunati.

16,4 kilometers up into the country- and mountainside, the streets are still in use (for ordinary traffic).

Like a mini-Pescara with some interesting hairpins and a beautiful view over the lake.

The winners list includes Nuvolari, Farina, Villoresi, Ascari and in later years Siffert, Hitches, Schlesser, Moser

plus the last winner in 1966: dear old Jonathan Williams/de Sanctis.

Memory lane...



#5 Doug Nye

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Posted 08 March 2025 - 14:48

Yes we drove parts of the circuit but ran out of time to do a full lap.  Jonathan Williams won the last race there in an F3 De Sanctis and late in his life revisited and admitted that to have negotiated parts of the narrow sections through Salo itself absolutely flat-strap "we really must have been nuts!".  Innes Ireland drove a works Fiat-Abarth 1000 there in 1962, lapping faster than all the Italian regulars.  Carlo Abarth told him that all the rival team drivers would respect the pace of the leader and not challenge.  Innes led until the last gasp, rolled off the pace and abruptly Scarfiotti monstered past and won.  Deprived of his winner's bonuses and having to make do with second, Innes was absolutely outraged, spitting rivets...

 

Salo has not only a beautiful waterside - the place drips with my kind of history - Italian Schneider Trophy seaplanes, magnificent motor racing, Ferrari's first F1 win 1948 - Moss's breakthrough race in his Cooper 1000 there in 1949, HWMs later...and of course it became Mussolini's last refuge 1943-45 as centre of Italy's beleaguered Fascist Repubblica di Salò.  

 

DCN



#6 BRG

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Posted 08 March 2025 - 16:20

Of course the little town of Salo  has its own claim to notoriety as the last stand of Il Duce.



#7 Parkesi

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Posted 09 March 2025 - 11:55

Notoriety? Only recently / 27.02.2025 a "Divorce Italian Style"...

RAI news: 

Almost 80 years after the death of Benito Mussolini, the Italian town of Salò on Lake Garda has revoked the fascist dictator`s honorary citizenship.



#8 BRG

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Posted 09 March 2025 - 15:26

They were obviously clearing the decks for the official DCN State Visit.



#9 Doug Nye

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Posted 09 March 2025 - 19:16

Damn' right too, I say...       :smoking:

 

Dolorosus Cogito Numquam 

 

(O-Level Lat - failed)



#10 Doug Nye

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Posted 12 March 2025 - 21:18

In connection with Carolina Nuvolari - just found this interesting footage of the impressive lady...

 

https://www.facebook...845528628803025

 

DCN



#11 GLaird

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Posted 13 March 2025 - 07:49

A great piece of footage, but at which race were the photos of the car with the puncture, and tyre missing taken? Very Villeneuve, or perhaps vice versa!



#12 LittleChris

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Posted 13 March 2025 - 08:11

Photo at 1.54 looks like Brno, possibly the drop to the hairpin above Ostravacice

#13 Steve74

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Posted 13 March 2025 - 08:13

1937 Masaryk GP