10 replies to this topic

[KinetiK]

I've had my Thrustmaster NASCAR Digital Pro 2 wheel for 6 weeks now and I feel that I can honestly tell you all that it's not a very good wheel at all and that you should go elsewhere if you're looking at buying one.

1. Flimsy components: my right shifter paddle is inoperative due to faulty/cheap steel spring. There is a little flipper/paddle inside the wheel assembly that actuates Button #3. This little metal piece has broken off rendering the Right Paddle dead. I removed the paddle from the wheel so I could remove and replace the little metal bit and lo & behold, it's not replaceable. I need a new paddle! Needless to say I'm not very impressed.

2. Inaccuracy of the pedals. The steering is fairly precise with a nice, small deadband at the centre of the wheel but the pedals are total crap. The brake spring is extremely stiff and 0-100% of the output takes place over 20% of the full stroke. The gas pedal refuses to advance the output past 45-50% of theoretical maximum even at full pedal stroke.

3. Driver instability. The 2.33 Thrustmaster drivers seem to be relatively stable but they don't promote calibration of the unit. In fact, I have yet to see a Thrustmaster application that will allow you to calibrate the output of a pedal in terms of %of output vs % pedal travel. Perhaps the Thrustmaster pedals are incapable of such calibration... if so, I've definately got the wrong wheel assembly.

I've inquired with Thrustmaster about the availability of spare parts but have yet to hear back from them. I'm getting weary of all of this...

What's a better wheel to get other than this one? Actlabs? Any other ideas?

Distressfully yours,
KinetiK

[Indy2]

Haven't got a thrustmaster wheel but I do have some trouble with one of my Logitech FF GP(the new model..).
1st the gas pedal went bust, had to screw on a metal plate to avoid more damage.
2nd the potentiometer in the gas pedal broke(worn out), so I'm currently replacing it with better ones. A hell of a lot of work though.

[jdowns]

KinetiK,
have you gone through the Windows calibration routine? None of the games I have, have a calibration system, because Windows handles it these days. Open the control panel, open Gaming Options, click on your wheel, then click on Properties. You can test the range of movement here, and if not correct, click on the 'test' tab, then calibrate. This setting should be what all games use. I think it's a part of the DirectX specification (handling of all user I/O).

I have 3 different controls (two wheels, one joystick) and if I change between them I need to re-calibrate each time.

If you've already done this, and I'm being condescending, I apologise ;)

Jordan.

PS. The 'dead spot' is normally controlled by the game. In F1RC and two other games I have, you can configure the size of the dead spot for steering and accell/break separately. Also most games have a linear vs logarithmic advance.

[Yelnats]

I downloaded the 1.14 ? patch from the GP3.com? site and it has a much improved calibration for a wheel in the "Control Driven Calibration" mode. I calibrated wheel in windows first then fine tuned it with the GP3 patched game and am quite happy. The critical thing is setting up the sensitivity in the control options pannel to suit you style.

The dead zones on the brakes/gas I turn completly off to get a more linier feel and can precisly modulate the brakes/gas to the limit of cohesion the most of the time. The fastest braking is occuring well before you hear any load screaching from the tires especially as the speed is reduced. So this means I am only using about half the pedal at 70mph and but am foot to the floor at 200mph.

[damonhillchamp96]

I have had the pleasure (or displeasure) of using a couple of Thrustmaster wheels, as well as the Logitech wheel. You are right about the NASCAR Pro, it is ****. My favorite wheel of all time was the Thrustmaster GP1. It didn't have pedals, it had two paddles behind the wheel for gas and brake. But it was super easy to setup, never had a problem getting it to work in any games, and had next to zilch dead zone. I am still upset I had to replace that one.

[umma gumma]

I have a thrustmaster NASCAR sprint wheel, sounds exactly like the one you had, damon, but it has pedals too. the pedals are crap, they share an axis and are impossible to set up so they work properly. also the pots go out of calibration constantly, I think I'm going to get some high quality ones and build my own dual-axis brake/gas pedal unit. there was a really good link I found on the net for this.....if I find it again I'll post it here.

I tried it using the paddles for gas/brake, & it worked fine, but I prefer to shift with those I really like the wheel though.......paddle shifters & 4 buttons for other stuff. ( pit command in gp3, look left/right in GPL)

[KinetiK]

Originally posted by jdowns
KinetiK,
have you gone through the Windows calibration routine? None of the games I have, have a calibration system, because Windows handles it these days. Open the control panel, open Gaming Options, click on your wheel, then click on Properties. You can test the range of movement here, and if not correct, click on the 'test' tab, then calibrate. This setting should be what all games use. I think it's a part of the DirectX specification (handling of all user I/O).

I have 3 different controls (two wheels, one joystick) and if I change between them I need to re-calibrate each time.

If you've already done this, and I'm being condescending, I apologise ;)

Jordan.

PS. The 'dead spot' is normally controlled by the game. In F1RC and two other games I have, you can configure the size of the dead spot for steering and accell/break separately. Also most games have a linear vs logarithmic advance.

Argh, I completely forgot about this thread. Thank you all for replying, but Guillemot is replacing my wheel as it had a defective part.

As for the pedals, I have no idea about them. I'm certainly not very pleased with the quality of them but they'll have to do for now. I picked up a Modena 360° Pro at EB just before Hockenheim so I could drive the track as I usually do the week before a Grand Prix and then promptly took it back on the monday following the race. Thank God for EB's return policy! haha. Here's hoping I get my returned wheel from Thrustmaster in time for Hungary!

Thanks again to all for their help.

[umma gumma]

hey, I just tried something when I had a look at thrustmasters site. they said to spray inside the pots with WD40 to clean them out...well, it works!! my pedals are now useable, for the time being. I still think I'm going to build a unit with better quality potentiometers, but for now this will do.

just a FYI.....

[El Presidente]

Great advice about the WD40, tried it and it brought my old wheel back to life! Thanks!

[d_gledn]

Get a TSW.
http://www.thomas-superwheel.com/

Greetings,

Wati

[El Presidente]

I want to get a TSW but the shipping costs to the UK are just absurd, $160. Thats almost the price of the wheel itself!