I have nearly finished building my track day/road car and could do with some advice. The car is a mid-engined le-mans style racer, similar to a Radical. Not as good looking but a lot cheaper. It weighs 500kg and has a totally flat floor, slightly higher at the back with a rear diffuser.
What I'm trying to do is decrease lift, particularly at the light front end.
Are the following ideas of any value?
1 - Fit two rubber 'skirts' that run the length of the underside, stopping any air sneaking in from the sides.
2- Fit a duct and a high powered fan at the front underside of the car, to 'suck' air going under the front lip (similar in theory to the Brabham 'fan car') . Would I need a fan of epic proportions to make any impact on the pressure under the front of the car, or would anything 'smaller' merely cause a load of turbulence and spoil the airflow?
3 - The air removed from the underside could then be ducted to the rear of the car, through a home made heat exchanger to absorb some of the heat in my poorly ventilated engine bay, before exiting via a couple of ducts , fitted just above the diffuser. Would this help reduce drag by reducing the turbulence at the rear of the car? Is this the theory of base bleed aerodynamics?
4 - Testing. Any simple ways of measuring the effectiveness of modifications? My idea is to fit a length of adhesive paper along the underside of the car, before driving at high speed over a line of sand/dust, placed in the middle of the road. The more picked up, the better the 'suction', and could possibly indicate front to rear balance, or might it just indicate turbulence? A different way that works and doesn't also involve endangering the lives of our two wheeled friends would be appreciated!
As I said before I'm not expecting a load of downforce, just to reduce high speed lift and have a little fun experimenting. Any hints would be helpful.
underfloor aerodynamics
Started by
robroy
, Jan 13 2007 16:39
24 replies to this topic
Advertisement
#2
Greg Locock
-
- 6,452 posts
- Joined: March 03
Member
Posted 13 January 2007 - 21:03
1 2 and 3 sound good to me.
4 sucks, literally.
Why not put string pots or rotary pots on the suspension and measure how much it sucks down at speed.
4 sucks, literally.
Why not put string pots or rotary pots on the suspension and measure how much it sucks down at speed.
#3
NRoshier
-
- 506 posts
- Joined: September 06
Member
Posted 14 January 2007 - 08:54
re 1: use draft excluder brush, some poly carb or laminate up some kevlar tape. You need some stiffness there and some aversion to being ripped off by the edges of the road surface at speed. The Kevlar will abrade the least.
2. Need to move lots of air which is already at a lowish (you hope) pressure. Try it but it might not work without the right sort of fan...read about brabhams and chaparal's work.
3. Tried it with a car I have and it did not work well. You create a low pressure under the car...keep it as low as possible, using it to take air from your engine bay is just defeating some of your other work. Frank Costin said "suck is better than blow" which apart from making my toes curl when I read it at 16 has always stuck with me. Use the low pressure you create to draw the air. You want to keep the low under the car as clean and undisturbed as possible (hence the fences at the sides). So what else do you have? The air at the very rear of the car. A small vertical spoiler at the end of the rear deck will add downforce (higher pressure over the rear deck) and also increase the low pressure at the very rear of the car...use this and duct from the sides before the rear wheels.
4. how much time do you have and how much testing do you want to do?
2. Need to move lots of air which is already at a lowish (you hope) pressure. Try it but it might not work without the right sort of fan...read about brabhams and chaparal's work.
3. Tried it with a car I have and it did not work well. You create a low pressure under the car...keep it as low as possible, using it to take air from your engine bay is just defeating some of your other work. Frank Costin said "suck is better than blow" which apart from making my toes curl when I read it at 16 has always stuck with me. Use the low pressure you create to draw the air. You want to keep the low under the car as clean and undisturbed as possible (hence the fences at the sides). So what else do you have? The air at the very rear of the car. A small vertical spoiler at the end of the rear deck will add downforce (higher pressure over the rear deck) and also increase the low pressure at the very rear of the car...use this and duct from the sides before the rear wheels.
4. how much time do you have and how much testing do you want to do?
#4
robroy
-
- 200 posts
- Joined: January 07
Member
Posted 14 January 2007 - 10:28
String pots sound like a good idea to me. By measuring the compression of the spring I can not only find out if my mods work, but by using the spring rates I can get a fairly accurate reading for any decrease in lift.
Thanks Greg, I needed that injection of common sense.
Thanks Greg, I needed that injection of common sense.
#5
robroy
-
- 200 posts
- Joined: January 07
Member
Posted 14 January 2007 - 11:07
Thanks for the hints NR.
I think I'll try some draft excluder brush to start with and I shall also do some investigation into the type of fans used by others.
If I find a fan that can be used, would it be better to simply allow the removed air to escape directly upwards and through some ducts on the front of the bodywork?
Also, should I be fitting a front lip between the ground and the front bodywork? I'm guessing this would have to be even more rigid than the fences, and would only be suitable for very flat tracks otherwise it would break easily.
As for testing, I don't have a great deal of spare time or money, so Gregs suggestion of using string pots sounds cheap and simple enough for me and should provide more than enough data. I hope to make a rear spoiler soon, and maybe by using string pots I can measure the reduction in lift and adjust the front/rear balance to counter effect my 40/60 weight imbalance. Am I missing any other factors that would need to be measured/adjusted?
I think I'll try some draft excluder brush to start with and I shall also do some investigation into the type of fans used by others.
If I find a fan that can be used, would it be better to simply allow the removed air to escape directly upwards and through some ducts on the front of the bodywork?
Also, should I be fitting a front lip between the ground and the front bodywork? I'm guessing this would have to be even more rigid than the fences, and would only be suitable for very flat tracks otherwise it would break easily.
As for testing, I don't have a great deal of spare time or money, so Gregs suggestion of using string pots sounds cheap and simple enough for me and should provide more than enough data. I hope to make a rear spoiler soon, and maybe by using string pots I can measure the reduction in lift and adjust the front/rear balance to counter effect my 40/60 weight imbalance. Am I missing any other factors that would need to be measured/adjusted?
#6
NRoshier
-
- 506 posts
- Joined: September 06
Member
Posted 14 January 2007 - 21:25
Rob, without seeing your car I have no idea. Have a look at the mulsanne corner website and look wehe the LM cars put their ducts etc. They often exit air out behind the front wheels etc in fact they use this area as a 'driver' for the front diffuser.
The issue (I have been told by some who work in this area) is that ground effects (managed airflow from the front diffuser to the rear diffuser) can be tricky to balance and can be unreliable. Its effect with air speed and not ground speed, so running on a windy day (say 25mph wind) will give you a different balance running into the wind vs running with the wind, which might not be an issue with a heavy car may be an issue with your light little track car with a full body. You can get much of the same effect with the 'vacuum' car approach, which is what you are asking by sealing off the front of the car as much as possible, However at this point I will bow out of offering advice and I suggest that you read Katz's book on racecar aerodynamics, it is a good overall reference and will be applicable to what you are trying to do...it might save you a lot of work and refine where you go with the testing.
The issue (I have been told by some who work in this area) is that ground effects (managed airflow from the front diffuser to the rear diffuser) can be tricky to balance and can be unreliable. Its effect with air speed and not ground speed, so running on a windy day (say 25mph wind) will give you a different balance running into the wind vs running with the wind, which might not be an issue with a heavy car may be an issue with your light little track car with a full body. You can get much of the same effect with the 'vacuum' car approach, which is what you are asking by sealing off the front of the car as much as possible, However at this point I will bow out of offering advice and I suggest that you read Katz's book on racecar aerodynamics, it is a good overall reference and will be applicable to what you are trying to do...it might save you a lot of work and refine where you go with the testing.
#7
robroy
-
- 200 posts
- Joined: January 07
Member
Posted 15 January 2007 - 18:11
Thanks NR. I'll be ordering a copy soon, and will continue trying to dig up bits of information on ground effect cars.
#8
dead_eye
-
- 50 posts
- Joined: November 06
Member
Posted 16 January 2007 - 17:40
one thing to remember is its very easy to suddenly lose the downforce provided by ground effects on a smooth race track let alone on a rough road. If you pick up an extra 200lbs down force on the front at say 80mph then should you lose that down force at 80mph mid bend the car will behave like a physical 200lb weight has been removed from the car i.e the front end will come up big time and the more it comes up the more air can get under neath and then its comes up some more so on and so on till the car flips or rolls if its mid bend. (its banned in most racing series for a reson you know)
And as all the weight of your cars already in the rear you havent got a lot of saving grace if it does go!
Most ground effect cars run rear diffusers that work by spreading the amount of air out over a wider area to reduce the pressure and suck the mid/ rear of the car to the ground (youd have to be running a very effective system to get it happening under the front wheels that could be way ott at high speeds).
IMHO your best bet is to get everything to the front of the car that you can i.e rad, battery etc and try and lighten the rear as much as possible to get the weight issues sorted first.
Then id opt for a front spoiler to lock out as much air as possible with angled sides to take the air around the side of the car and over the canard winds on the arches that your going to fit next.
You also need to look at were any areas of high pressure are collecting under the front of the car. sloped vents like an lotus elise has on the bonnet guides air from the vents up and out rather than stagnating.
Id also stay away from adding any more rear down force at the moment as the harder the rears pushed down the more the front will rise.
It could even be worth trying to rise the rear ride height to shift some of the weight.
Out of interest what model is this exactly? Not the kelforms retoga by any chance?
Ive got a few videos of the old group b racers and dtm cars losing ground effects downforce on straights and when you see them flip 20ft in the air it may make you think twice. It only takes a small pothole or a gust of wind to mess it all up!
And as all the weight of your cars already in the rear you havent got a lot of saving grace if it does go!
Most ground effect cars run rear diffusers that work by spreading the amount of air out over a wider area to reduce the pressure and suck the mid/ rear of the car to the ground (youd have to be running a very effective system to get it happening under the front wheels that could be way ott at high speeds).
IMHO your best bet is to get everything to the front of the car that you can i.e rad, battery etc and try and lighten the rear as much as possible to get the weight issues sorted first.
Then id opt for a front spoiler to lock out as much air as possible with angled sides to take the air around the side of the car and over the canard winds on the arches that your going to fit next.
You also need to look at were any areas of high pressure are collecting under the front of the car. sloped vents like an lotus elise has on the bonnet guides air from the vents up and out rather than stagnating.
Id also stay away from adding any more rear down force at the moment as the harder the rears pushed down the more the front will rise.
It could even be worth trying to rise the rear ride height to shift some of the weight.
Out of interest what model is this exactly? Not the kelforms retoga by any chance?
Ive got a few videos of the old group b racers and dtm cars losing ground effects downforce on straights and when you see them flip 20ft in the air it may make you think twice. It only takes a small pothole or a gust of wind to mess it all up!
#9
robroy
-
- 200 posts
- Joined: January 07
Member
Posted 16 January 2007 - 22:50
More good stuff.
I think first off, I will see if I can accurately measure the suspension deflection, and get some idea of how much lift there is to start with. Then I'll come up with some non-skirt mods for road and bumpy tracks, revolving around front spoiler and efficiently removing air from the front bodywork using the side ducts and bodywork above radiator. Canards look like a good idea and are going on my list too.
If I'm still feeling confident then I'll try some skirt mods for the 'flatter' tracks with more run off area. In the unlikely event I start to generate a decent amount of downforce (in a straight line on a calm day), I will probably be too concerned about instant loss of downforce to drive it, but I'll make that decision then!
Chassis and body is an early version of a Spire GTR (spire sportscars). To get an idea of what I'm starting with some photos are on the blog of VAR1016: http://var1016.blogspot.com/
Not quite in the same league as the Retoga, but is good fun to drive. Unfortunately the photos don't show my recent front and rear underfloor panels or diffuser, but give an idea of what I'm starting with. You can also see my heavy gearbox is the main reason for my weight imbalance.
Thanks for all the other advice. It is noted!
Haven't seen many clips of ground effect'disasters' other than the famous one at Le Mans recently. I shall check you tube.
I think first off, I will see if I can accurately measure the suspension deflection, and get some idea of how much lift there is to start with. Then I'll come up with some non-skirt mods for road and bumpy tracks, revolving around front spoiler and efficiently removing air from the front bodywork using the side ducts and bodywork above radiator. Canards look like a good idea and are going on my list too.
If I'm still feeling confident then I'll try some skirt mods for the 'flatter' tracks with more run off area. In the unlikely event I start to generate a decent amount of downforce (in a straight line on a calm day), I will probably be too concerned about instant loss of downforce to drive it, but I'll make that decision then!
Chassis and body is an early version of a Spire GTR (spire sportscars). To get an idea of what I'm starting with some photos are on the blog of VAR1016: http://var1016.blogspot.com/
Not quite in the same league as the Retoga, but is good fun to drive. Unfortunately the photos don't show my recent front and rear underfloor panels or diffuser, but give an idea of what I'm starting with. You can also see my heavy gearbox is the main reason for my weight imbalance.
Thanks for all the other advice. It is noted!
Haven't seen many clips of ground effect'disasters' other than the famous one at Le Mans recently. I shall check you tube.
#10
NRoshier
-
- 506 posts
- Joined: September 06
Member
Posted 17 January 2007 - 08:34
OK, nice shape. Unusual powerplant. Where does the air go/exit that enters the grill at the front of the car?
#11
dead_eye
-
- 50 posts
- Joined: November 06
Member
Posted 17 January 2007 - 15:32
as above you need to lose that air somewere without causing anymore front end lift.
LMAO didnt mean to put you off of it, just take it into consideration when your lining the next bend up on the road ;) On the track its up to you, i flipped a 106 in a road rally going over what can only be described as the craziest humpback bridge in the world at 85mph! IT was one of those things youd love to do again if you were invincible lolol
Mercedes racecar takes off (i think just a few years after one landed in the crowd!)
LMAO didnt mean to put you off of it, just take it into consideration when your lining the next bend up on the road ;) On the track its up to you, i flipped a 106 in a road rally going over what can only be described as the craziest humpback bridge in the world at 85mph! IT was one of those things youd love to do again if you were invincible lolol
Mercedes racecar takes off (i think just a few years after one landed in the crowd!)
#12
robroy
-
- 200 posts
- Joined: January 07
Member
Posted 17 January 2007 - 18:13
Currently just over half of the air (the central portion of the grills) goes directly into the ducted radiator and then has to find its own way out towards the side exits. I'm going to tilt the radiator the other way, and redesign the ducting so air goes straight in and then through a duct in the top of the bodywork, with no chance of escaping.
The outer parts of the grills at the front will be used for cooling. I'm going to fit ducts that will supply air through two 50mm lengths of tubing per side. I was thinking one tube per side for brakes, and running the other two tubes down the side to the engine bay to help remove some of the hot air out of the engine bay and through the holes that I'm currently chopping into the rear bodywork. If not just duct it straight out the side exits.
I still can't shake fans out of my head. Maybe two lower powered fans, fitted on each side exit grill could suck out most of the extra air that will be coming up between the wheels and undertray.
The outer parts of the grills at the front will be used for cooling. I'm going to fit ducts that will supply air through two 50mm lengths of tubing per side. I was thinking one tube per side for brakes, and running the other two tubes down the side to the engine bay to help remove some of the hot air out of the engine bay and through the holes that I'm currently chopping into the rear bodywork. If not just duct it straight out the side exits.
I still can't shake fans out of my head. Maybe two lower powered fans, fitted on each side exit grill could suck out most of the extra air that will be coming up between the wheels and undertray.
#13
dead_eye
-
- 50 posts
- Joined: November 06
Member
Posted 17 January 2007 - 18:40
Youd need some mega fans though there was a car in the 70's i believe that ran active downforce with a fan under the rear of the car but it was powered by a snowmobile engine to be effective.
You need to work out how much air is going to be flowing under the car for a given speed e.g 1000litres min through grill opening at 90mph (ive got no idea what kind of figures it will turn out to be but expect them to be mahhusive numbers). If the fan cant flow more than that then at that speed and above itl have no effect and the blades will actually restrict the airflow.
TBH other than cooling at low speeds the weight added with a second engine is going to be more of a penalty to handling than the downforce will gain.
I worked on a mid engined car last year that had all the vents that wernt required for the front mounted rad vented straight from the front bumper, throught the bulk head and over the top of the engine with 2 double foglight sized aperatures going straight back to the intake. This gave the air through the absoloute lowest path of resistance through the car and had had massive time invested in CAD and windtunnel design but the theories there for you to use so long as you dont mind cluttering up the cabin.
The Worst thing you can do is 'leave the air to find its own way out'! It will cost less than £100 to make up a fibreglass panel for under the bonnet curving from the bottom of the front bumper gently up to the top of the scuttle and out of the vents. This guides all the air out and into a handy low pressure zone that will help suck it out. I run one of these on my road car (front engine made it a bit more complicated to make) and it eliminated all noticable front end lift up to 130mph.
Youl also find some wheels are designed to suck air out over the brakes to keep them cool- the upside being they suck the air from under the car;)
Aerodynamics are a bit of a black art without cad a good few years of theory or a windtunnel behind you and sometimes the tiniest changes can have drastic negative or positive inputs in places you would never have thought but u i hope you have some luck and id love to know how you get on
You need to work out how much air is going to be flowing under the car for a given speed e.g 1000litres min through grill opening at 90mph (ive got no idea what kind of figures it will turn out to be but expect them to be mahhusive numbers). If the fan cant flow more than that then at that speed and above itl have no effect and the blades will actually restrict the airflow.
TBH other than cooling at low speeds the weight added with a second engine is going to be more of a penalty to handling than the downforce will gain.
I worked on a mid engined car last year that had all the vents that wernt required for the front mounted rad vented straight from the front bumper, throught the bulk head and over the top of the engine with 2 double foglight sized aperatures going straight back to the intake. This gave the air through the absoloute lowest path of resistance through the car and had had massive time invested in CAD and windtunnel design but the theories there for you to use so long as you dont mind cluttering up the cabin.
The Worst thing you can do is 'leave the air to find its own way out'! It will cost less than £100 to make up a fibreglass panel for under the bonnet curving from the bottom of the front bumper gently up to the top of the scuttle and out of the vents. This guides all the air out and into a handy low pressure zone that will help suck it out. I run one of these on my road car (front engine made it a bit more complicated to make) and it eliminated all noticable front end lift up to 130mph.
Youl also find some wheels are designed to suck air out over the brakes to keep them cool- the upside being they suck the air from under the car;)
Aerodynamics are a bit of a black art without cad a good few years of theory or a windtunnel behind you and sometimes the tiniest changes can have drastic negative or positive inputs in places you would never have thought but u i hope you have some luck and id love to know how you get on
#14
NRoshier
-
- 506 posts
- Joined: September 06
Member
Posted 18 January 2007 - 09:08
I would agree with dead eye that ducting would be the first place to start. Next try one thing at a time and see what works. I think it unlikely that you will get it right first time and the problem with trying 5 things all at the start is that you will not be sure which ones do/not contribute to what you have.
Re pressure readings, try to source a cheap digital manometer with which you could take pressure readings. They can feed data straight into some data-loggers or PDA's. Using this you will be able to plot your pressures around the car, which will give you quite a lot of information if you are prepared to invest the time.
Re pressure readings, try to source a cheap digital manometer with which you could take pressure readings. They can feed data straight into some data-loggers or PDA's. Using this you will be able to plot your pressures around the car, which will give you quite a lot of information if you are prepared to invest the time.
#15
dead_eye
-
- 50 posts
- Joined: November 06
Member
Posted 18 January 2007 - 20:04
Just had a word with one of my old customers as im playing around with an active downforce setup at the minuite. Logitech made him a loom to take the 35 temperature and pressure sensors he wanted positioned around the body (internally and externally) not cheap at £400 +sensors+gauges but a whole lot cheaper than wind tunnel testing and less complicated than learning to use a CAD related program
#16
Paolo
-
- 1,677 posts
- Joined: May 00
Member
Posted 19 January 2007 - 16:45
Make sure the flat panel under the car is in a slightly diving attitude.
It will help a lot with front end lift, if your underbody is doing at least some of the work it is supposed to do.
"Slightly" means 2-8 degrees.
Of course this will change as the suspension bounces, so you should try to calculate or measure the attitude the car wiill be in at any given speed.
Otherwise, just try and change ride height until you feel OK.
If ride height is over 150 mm, don't bother with ground effect, it won't work.
Same under 5 mm.
Change is non linear: you should notice big changes even for a couple mm differences when low from the ground.
As the downforce increases, so will the unpredictability of the car, unless you stiffen springs.
Front end lip is a mixed blessing: it will add pressure to the front, but it could also royally **** the underbody airflow and kill the suction. Impossible to to predict without at least looking at the car, just very difficult otherwise.
Basically, if you have a rounded cross section at the start of underfloor, gently helping flow in, avoid that lip.
If you have an angle anyway, try putting it.
Lip should be near to horizontal.
It will help a lot with front end lift, if your underbody is doing at least some of the work it is supposed to do.
"Slightly" means 2-8 degrees.
Of course this will change as the suspension bounces, so you should try to calculate or measure the attitude the car wiill be in at any given speed.
Otherwise, just try and change ride height until you feel OK.
If ride height is over 150 mm, don't bother with ground effect, it won't work.
Same under 5 mm.
Change is non linear: you should notice big changes even for a couple mm differences when low from the ground.
As the downforce increases, so will the unpredictability of the car, unless you stiffen springs.
Front end lip is a mixed blessing: it will add pressure to the front, but it could also royally **** the underbody airflow and kill the suction. Impossible to to predict without at least looking at the car, just very difficult otherwise.
Basically, if you have a rounded cross section at the start of underfloor, gently helping flow in, avoid that lip.
If you have an angle anyway, try putting it.
Lip should be near to horizontal.
#17
robroy
-
- 200 posts
- Joined: January 07
Member
Posted 19 January 2007 - 22:03
Thanks everyone.
I will be working on ducting off all that air through the grill, and messing about with some suspension measuring in the near future. I think pressure readings will be worthwile, but a little too costly. I will be keeping my eyes peeled for cheap equipment though.
I'll be rounding off the bottom of the front bodywork to start with (no more than 6mm radius possible) and will try various simple add-ons from there. I don't want to increase drag too much so pushing air around the sides is also high on priorities. I ought to also try using streak lines to check the efficiency of any of my mods in this area, and possibly how much air is coming out my side exits.
If I get any reliable suspension readings and can start differentiating between various add-ons I will post the details along with suspension settings etc.
Don't hold your breath, though.....
I will be working on ducting off all that air through the grill, and messing about with some suspension measuring in the near future. I think pressure readings will be worthwile, but a little too costly. I will be keeping my eyes peeled for cheap equipment though.
I'll be rounding off the bottom of the front bodywork to start with (no more than 6mm radius possible) and will try various simple add-ons from there. I don't want to increase drag too much so pushing air around the sides is also high on priorities. I ought to also try using streak lines to check the efficiency of any of my mods in this area, and possibly how much air is coming out my side exits.
If I get any reliable suspension readings and can start differentiating between various add-ons I will post the details along with suspension settings etc.
Don't hold your breath, though.....
#18
NRoshier
-
- 506 posts
- Joined: September 06
Member
#19
Greg Locock
-
- 6,452 posts
- Joined: March 03
Member
Posted 20 January 2007 - 11:54
Nice toy. A mercury or water U tube manometer is even cheaper. 1 psi is about 2 ft of water. I doubt you'll get anything like 1 psi,
Advertisement
#20
NRoshier
-
- 506 posts
- Joined: September 06
Member
Posted 20 January 2007 - 12:18
The one I have played with did .2" h2o increments, I thought of it only as a lead to look wider.
#21
NRoshier
-
- 506 posts
- Joined: September 06
Member
Posted 21 January 2007 - 08:20
checked the specs on the manometer, goes in increments of .1" H2O.
#22
Greg Locock
-
- 6,452 posts
- Joined: March 03
Member
Posted 21 January 2007 - 09:21
So with say 50 sq ft to play with, .1" of water is about 30 lb of downforce.
I cn live with that
I cn live with that
#23
VAR1016
-
- 2,826 posts
- Joined: June 02
Member
Posted 22 January 2007 - 16:49
Originally posted by robroy
Currently just over half of the air (the central portion of the grills) goes directly into the ducted radiator and then has to find its own way out towards the side exits. I'm going to tilt the radiator the other way, and redesign the ducting so air goes straight in and then through a duct in the top of the bodywork, with no chance of escaping.
The outer parts of the grills at the front will be used for cooling. I'm going to fit ducts that will supply air through two 50mm lengths of tubing per side. I was thinking one tube per side for brakes, and running the other two tubes down the side to the engine bay to help remove some of the hot air out of the engine bay and through the holes that I'm currently chopping into the rear bodywork. If not just duct it straight out the side exits.
I still can't shake fans out of my head. Maybe two lower powered fans, fitted on each side exit grill could suck out most of the extra air that will be coming up between the wheels and undertray.
And don't forget me...
If you end up increasing the drag, you'll be needing more horsepower from that Fulvia engine!
Best
Paul
#24
robroy
-
- 200 posts
- Joined: January 07
Member
Posted 22 January 2007 - 22:37
I think I'll have a go with a u-tube. Should give a good idea of what's going on and is also cheap and simple!
As for the engine. With a mere 100 bhp from its 1300cc, I reckon I'll be 'bored' pretty soon. I may be posting questions about supercharging or nitrous this time next year......
As for the engine. With a mere 100 bhp from its 1300cc, I reckon I'll be 'bored' pretty soon. I may be posting questions about supercharging or nitrous this time next year......
#25
VAR1016
-
- 2,826 posts
- Joined: June 02
Member
Posted 23 January 2007 - 08:39
Nitrous?? Gosh...
Mind you the engine in Carlo Stella's Competizione a 1300, gives about 144HP at 8500...
Paul
Mind you the engine in Carlo Stella's Competizione a 1300, gives about 144HP at 8500...
Paul
